“The whole premise of the show is that we’re at a science fair,” explains Linh Nguyen, lead stylist for Redken/Cutler backstage at Rachel Antonoff. “Rachel was inspired by a girl who fell in love with her teacher, but her teacher is in love with another teacher.” This naturally translated into a youthful look. “We were going for something cute, so we wanted a middle part. You know how when you’re going through puberty your hair has all kinds of different textures? We also wanted to incorporate that,” notes Nguyen.
The inspiration meant that models’ hair had more than one texture for a look that mixed lightly brushed out curls, waves and straight hair. Key products were Redken’s Pillow Proof to achieve the texture and Fashion Work 12 to set the overall look.
Contrary to what you may think, makeup was not similarly understated. “I’ve worked with Rachel for many years. She always comes up with an amazing story and is very involved. The whole process is very grassroots,” explains MAC lead makeup artist Keri Blair. “Because the collection was inspired by a love triangle in a boarding school and it takes place at a science fair, the colors of phosphors were what inspired us.” This meant lots of red, burgundy and orange variations.
When asked why she opted for such a strong look when the inspiration was a high school student, Blair explains, “This season is actually very grown up. This is a girl who can’t wait to go to college and go out with older boys. She’s well-traveled and clever, which is why we went with the phosphorous idea.”
Among the key products, according to Blair, were MAC’s Coffee Eye Pencil, which was used inside the water line, Sincere Powder Blush (it was used on cheeks and blended out from the eye to the brow bone), a mix of Oh Lady and Liquid Drama on lips, Everyone’s Darling Eyeshadow for the burned eye color (new shade) and lots of mascara because “this is a girl that is savvy and sexy.”