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Debating the Native American Headdress at Chanel’s Dallas-Inspired Show (Forum Buzz)

Image: Getty

Image: Getty

For Chanel's Pre-Fall 2014 show, designer Karl Lagerfeld took inspiration from two cities that are rarely mentioned in the same breath: Paris and Dallas. The former is the birthplace of haute couture; the latter is best known for its football team and Texan charm. With such a gimmicky concept, certain aspects of the collection were bound to be contrived and borderline offensive. Such as: the American Indian bride suit, complete with feather headdress, which closed out the show.

Brands, pay attention: Stop fetishizing Native attire. In the U.S., American Indians were victims of a mass genocide and today, many Native communities struggle with high rates of drug and alcohol addiction, poverty and crime. Feathered headdresses are sacred items for spiritual rituals; using them as fashion statement fodder perpetuates the same erasure that Native people have faced for centuries. 

But that's just my opinion. When the look above appeared in the forums, the response was immediate:

"I was wondering if anyone would mention the cultural appropriation," said pixiedust1603.

"Isn't that the essence of his pre-collections? Let's travel to some country/city, Google about the culture, make themed outfits, wrap it in tweed and voilà," said Marc10. "Anyway, this looks terribly predictable and ugly."

"So is anyone allowed to be inspired by cultures other than their own, then?" asked Dior_Couture1245. "I take far more offense to the fact that the clothes are revoltingly hideous."

LabelWhore4: "Those headdresses are sacred to many tribes and hold deep spiritual/religious meanings. They're not just meant to be pretty."

OliverForever: "The thing about the headdress that upsets me is how it lightheartedly mocks people who were slaughtered en masse throughout the colonial times. The headdress is not like a bindi or a beaded necklace, they signify rank and bring back painful memories of patriotism. 'I killed the savage and now I'm wearing their funny hat,' is the message this has. I am incredibly disappointed and will no longer support Chanel."

"One can also say it's a cultural appropriation when models wear cowboy-inspired outfits," argued Lax89. "Is anyone going to say it's racist? I doubt it."

A rebuttal from OliverForever: "Those poor cowboys, victims of anti-cowboy genocide and of course the 'trail of cowboy tears.'"

Lax89 comes back: "I'm not denying any of the history of the Indian people and what happened is completely wrong but a collection inspired by a culture is not always racist, at least to me. I see it as a homage. And frankly, those headpieces won't be worn by anyone besides models in photoshoots. It's not like we're going to see everyday people parading in headpieces like those."

MyNameIs had extended response for Lagerfeld's critics: 

"Crosses are 'sacred' and 'hold deep spiritual religious meanings' to a lot of people. Those religious icon images that have showed up on dresses are 'sacred' and 'hold deep spiritual religious meanings' to a lot of people. Was anyone 'offended'?

…. This is something I've never understood. What do past wrongs have to do with a fashion collection today? And why is paying an homage to a culture a bad thing? When did it become a bad thing? Are people in Europe as trigger-happy to start complaining about it, or is this just an American thing?

Karl did a Russian collection a few years back. Russian/Slavic people have suffered all kinds of tragedies too, did anyone complain about that? And as a Slavic person myself, I personally wasn't offended by it either. Why is it usually the people who aren't even in the given group that seem to be the most 'offended' by the whatever currently hip insensitivity taking place?"

LabelWhore4 replied: "When was the last time people who hold crosses so sacred were the victims of genocide? When [was] the last time they were made to live on some of the worst pieces of land in a huge nation? When is the last time the government actively refused to provide any type of social and financial aid to said group? Hmmm? By all means, go out of your way to not get it but that doesn't make this collection any less wrong. But its okay because its fashion, huh?"

Phuel had a different perspective: "It's Lagefeld. It's hard to find him politically and socially offensive since he's so stunningly clueless. His 'creative' process is so utterly predictable: Dallas = Rodeos = Cowboys = Cowboys & Indians. I think that's about it."

There's way more argument where that came from in the tFS Forums — check it out. If you're not a member, you can share your opinion below. 

RelatedVictoria’s Secret to Pull Karlie Kloss’ Native American Headdress Look For Broadcast

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ASOS Collaborates with Cool East London Brand House of Hackney

If you love both fashion and London, then no doubt you’ve been to the bubbling Hackney area. More specifically, Dalston, based in the trendy East side of the Capital. It’s a hub of emerging designers, fashion forward students, and general creatives floating around here and there, and is therefore the perfect area for new fashion trends to develop.

Many emerging (and actually some established designers too) often admit to visiting the area as a source of inspiration to influence their designs. And of course, several young brands have set up home there for that very reason, and one label that you definitely have to get on your fashion radar is the House of Hackney.

hoh

The cool brand is extremely influenced by the area’s students and what’s become the typical grungy Dalston girl look, and they have taken their design signatures and teamed up again with the leading fashion e-tailer ASOS to create a cool new capsule collection called Dalston Tart.

A selection of festive feeling tartans and sumptuous velvet pieces are key to the collaboration and already stocking those virtual shelves, so take a look at some of their striking printed smocks and separates available on at ASOS

The Buzz Latest News

Isabel Marant Opens Her First London Boutique

We queued all the way around the block and patiently waited to get inside and snap up the very best pieces of the Isabel Marant pour H&M collection, and it was definitely worth the wait, as it turned out to be an amazing collection that’s since been pictured on an array of the most stylish celebs. Perhaps that’s because, despite being high street, it has a true designer feel, as the collection was actually created at Marant’s mainline factory.

So, with the H&M collection whetting our appetites for more Isabel Marant, we’re super excited about the opening of her first London boutique in Mayfair. To celebrate her launch, she recently held an exclusive party at a rundown chapel in Covent Garden, with quite a few members of top secret fashion royalty in attendance, including the designer herself.

The new store based on Bruton Street has a very minimal feel about it that wouldn’t be at all out of place amongst Berlin’s cool boutique filled streets. Pop in for a peruse around some of the finest pieces from the designer’s latest collections, and who knows, maybe Santa will listen to your wishes and send you a few of your favourites this Christmas.

isabel marant london boutique

Image: Isabel Marant

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Joe Fresh Spring 2014 Key Trends to Watch

Let’s talk about spring baby! Because while the wind is biting and snow is flurrying outside, designers and retailers are already prepping for the first signs of melting ice. Joe Fresh, for one, has already unveiled its Spring 2014 collection, a range of fashionable classics in modern silhouettes to update your wardrobe. Rooted in the idea of chic functionality, this season focuses on graphic stripes, minimalist dressing, pretty prints and denim on denim, all in a kaleidoscope of pick-me-up springtime colours.

Pretty Prints and Patterns:

Pretty Prints

This season, try tonal print mixing or soft dressing with slim pencil skirts, soft pajama pants and silk shirts.

(more…)

The Buzz Latest News

Link Buzz: Kristen Stewart is Chanel’s New Face; Galliano and ODLR Are Obsessed With Each Other

  • Kristen Stewart at the Chanel Métiers d'Art Paris‐Dallas show / Image: Getty

    Kristen Stewart at the Chanel Metiers d’Art Paris‐Dallas show / Image: Getty

    Kristen Stewart
    will appear in Karl Lagrfeld's 2013 Chanel Métiers d'Art Paris‐Dallas collection campaign. [Vogue UK]
  • When you're Dita Von Teese, a flea market is also a photo opp. [FabSugar]
     
  • You don't have to put a sock in it. (Your topknot.) [BellaSugar]
     
  • Here are five moments that apparently made the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show worth watching last night. I'll have to take your word for it. [HuffPo Style]
     
  • Oscar de la Renta and John Galliano are still trying to figure out if there's a way they can be together (professionally). The designers reportedly email weekly. [WWD]

 

The Buzz Latest News

Watch: Assloads of Twerking Backstage at the Victoria’s Secret Show, Courtesy of Cara Delevingne

To promote last night's airing of the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show, Cara Delevingne posted an Instagram video which showed Doutzen Kroes and Joan Smalls twerking backstage at the runway show.

The accompanying caption reads: "I was saving this ass video until last! Take it away@doutzen @joansmalls @victoriassecret check out the #VSfashionshow playing tonight! X."

Compelling stuff, if you like watching butts gyrate* — 

Related: 


* Welcome to theFashionSpot, pervs of Google!

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