Yesterday evening, Eric Wilson of The New York Times posted an item with the perhaps sarcastic title, "Some Gains in Runway Diversity."
Wilson noted that Derek Lam and Alexander Wang (both were called out for featuring only one black model each at their respective Fall 2013 shows by Bethann Hardison's runway diversity campaign) showed more diversity in their runway casting. "This Fashion Week, Mr. Lam and Mr. Wang each had two black models, so you could say that was a 100 percent improvement," he wrote. "Or you could say, as André Leon Talley did before the Oscar de la Renta show on Tuesday, that 'two is not enough.'”
Hardison's coalition counts supermodels Naomi Campbell and Iman as close allies. Their campaign for greater runway diversity has attracted plenty of media attention (all three women appeared on Good Morning America earlier this week) and other prominent black members of the fashion establishment have stepped in to voice their support and condemn acts of racism in the industry.
One of these people — a towering inferno in the fashion world, as he likes to be called — is André Leon Talley, quoted in Wilson's aforementioned blog post. In a new video interview with Chris Witherspoon at the TheGrio, Talley spoke at length about the often silent racism he's encountered over the course of his brilliant career.
Formerly the Editor-at-Large at Vogue, Talley recently moved on to Numero Russia. He suggests the transfer was a matter of salary, and connects issues of money to implicit racial bias:
At 9:30 a.m. last Thursday, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week's opening day, Cosmo's Carly Cardellino first spotted the trend. "My first backstage fashion week parting gift: Njoy cigarettes!" she tweeted. Adding, "WHAT?!"
The next morning, New York's Kurt Soller listed NJOY e-cigarettes as one of the "13 Awesome Moments from Day One of Fashion Week." Later, The New York Times posted a glammed-up photograph of a stunning, red-lipped woman exhaling nicotine e-vapor in the courtyard at Lincoln Center (the publication reports that she's an NJOY rep). Soon, BryanBoy was Instagramming shots of himself "vaping" in high style at FashionIndie's Socialyte Gala (hashtag #njoyment).
BryanBoy at the Socialyte Gala with Rumi Neely, Kyle Anderson and Riccardo Pozzoli / Image: Instagram/BryanBoy
By the time NJOY appeared as a sponsor at Prabal Gurung's well-attended runway after-party, the brand's status as a Fashion Week staple was secure.
Pharrell Williams and artist Daniel Arsham officially unveiled their collaboration at The Standard East Village last night amongst an eclectic crowd that included the likes of Terry Richardson and Phillip Bloch. The pieces on display, which came in various colors, were sculptures of a Casio MT-500 keyboard. In one room three of them were displayed under glass, while in another, guests were invited to take their picture with one of the keyboards — as long as they wore white gloves which were being distributed by women wearing white lab coats. Pharrell was on hand talking with guests and posing for pictures and, when asked what inspired the pieces, he said that the keyboard was the first instrument that he ever played. Music and art aren't all that Pharrell has up his sleeve, however, it was just announced that the multi-talented artist has a collaboration with Moncler in the works.
Later in the night the crowd shuffled to the ever-growing EMM Group's latest hot spot La Cenita where Wilhelmina Models was hosting its annual New York Fashion Week party with a slew of models including Coco Rocha. If last night is anything to go by, La Cenita will be a go-to spot for many more fashion industry events to come…
Scottish born and Royal College of Art educated fashion designer Holly Fulton is known for creating pieces that are luxurious yet easy to wear, and of course, her iconic digital prints. She’s joining the rest of London’s fashion finest and showcasing her latest Spring 2014 collection later this week at LFW.
But if like us, you’re already caught up in all of the Fashion Week excitement, and you just can’t wait to see Holly’s latest collection, then, head over to eBay where she’s just launched a small capsule collection that stays true to her design signatures and includes graphic prints and hot accessories.
The prices range between £70 and £120 and are only available until the September 18, so you better move fast before it sells out! We’ve got our eye on one of her laser-cut statement necklaces, as it’d definitely make a great finishing touch to one of our Fashion Week outfits. Her capsule collection is limited edition and only available on eBay. It features three pieces from her 70s art school rockers-inspired A/W 13 collection in hand with a handful of pieces that have been exclusively created for eBay.
Tome is no longer the new kid in town. Since presenting their Fall 2013 collection at New York Fashion Week in February, the NYC-via-Sydney duo has been nominated for the CFDA award, that holy beacon of talent fostering that has seen Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, Rodarte and Joseph Altuzarra benefit from valuable mentoring and beefy cash prizes.
The Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin Spring 2014 collection gave us hope they’re in with a strong chance of winning it. Taking their inspiration from the late Cuban American Ana Mendita, the designers worked her spiritual, earth-inspired philosophy into powerfully feminine clothes.
There were the same voluminous coats, delicate sheath dresses and luxurious shirting that Tome wooed New York with last season, but this time rendered in magical fabrics. Dresses were overlain with embellished tulle and the structured pieces came in phosphorescent sand and blush tones. The boys also played around with tweeds and python prints that were an unexpected but welcome complement to those dreamy maxi dresses.
Those with their discerning eyes on Friday’s presentation included Garance Doré, Jenna Lyons and the CFDA’s Steven Kolb (and presumably, though from a distance, Anna Wintour). Before the fund winner is announced, Lobo and Martin have to create one-of-a-kind looks that will be underwritten by Uniqlo and unveiled in October. We can’t wait to see what they come up with, and will have our fingers crossed until the all-important date of November 11.
Last night, DKNY celebrated its 25th anniversary in a ridiculous … um, fashion. The brand's birthday cake, molded into the shape of a taxi, was so big and heavy that a half dozen people were seen lumbering across the floor of the party carrying it, crippled by its weight. Personal bottles of Moët & Chandon, capped with a sippy flute, were one of the more appealing beverage options available at the bar, which advertised (but sadly did not serve) "donuts" and "coffee" in bright neon signage. For nibbles, waiters sashayed through the venue — the vacant Wall Street building known as "The Corner," formerly owned by J.P. Morgan — carrying silver trays loaded on one side with pizza, pretzels or sliders and on the other with (inexplicably) stacks of thyme.
We left before the pinnacle of the evening: Many outlets have already covered Rita Ora's scheduled performance (the pop star had also appeared on the runway for DKNY's Spring 2014 show earlier that day), which included some twerking in tandem with Iggy Azalea. But twerk, shmerk: I'm more disappointed that I missed seeing designer Donna Karan feed taxi cab cake to Karlie Kloss out of the palm of her hand.