I am starting to resent the September Issues for monopolizing so much of my brain space. I get it: September is a big ad month, fashion glossies pull out all the stops to increase newsstand sales and impress advertisers and competitors; we are a fashion blog which covers many fashion things, including but not limited to what happens when models and actresses are draped in finery by established industry professionals and then photographed for mass public consumption. Most of the time, this is fine, because if a cover isn't intrinsically interesting, we don't have to cover it — end of story. But in September, every cover is a big cover, one that needs to be opined on and picked apart. Except it gets boring. When you break it down, it's just pretty ladies being photographed wearing pretty things, an activity which has been occurring with increasing regularity since AT LEAST the 1860s. And yes, sometimes the end result is more successful or less successful or hilarious or whatever, but it's still just one picture, of all the millions or billions of pictures taken each day. Without variety, our brains turn to mush and the September Issues are sameness disguised as variety — or else secretly just a plot to destroy me from the inside.
All that being said, Cara Delevingne looks fantastic for W Magazine's all-important September Issue, photographed by photo duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, but she looks even more fantastic in a boob-revealing photo in the accompanying editorial. People are expressing a lot of hatred for her and the cover in the issue's dedicated forum thread, which … okay. As I said, I like the cover but I'm okay with being wrong in this case. Or in any case. If this is wrong, I don't want to be right, etc. The only thing that needs to be said is HAPPY BIRTHDAY CARA!!
And then there's Saskia de Brauw on the September 2013 cover of Vogue Paris, also photographed by Mert & Marcus — are you starting to see my point about how various September Issues are essentially identical and that poring over their distinctions is a recipe for brain mush?
Brain mush redux: The dominant cover line here translates to "The sublime grunge fever." Considering the fact that it's been plaguing us for the past two decades, I'd categorize it more as a chronic condition.
A favorite of editor Emmanuelle Alt, the Dutch model was previously featured in an editorial photographed by David Sims in last month's issue.
Mario Testino for Vogue / Calvin Klein Collection
To me, Jennifer Lawrence has the kind of intensely expressive face that's always seemed way more telegenic than photogenic. Unlike, say, Coco Rocha or Cara Delevingne, who contort their faces in over-the-top ways which read perfectly in 2-D, Lawrence's expressions are more subtle, reflecting minute shifts in her interiority, something which can be difficult to capture in a still image. Needless to say, she's absolutely beautiful, possibly too beautiful to have been cast as Katniss Everdeen for The Hunger Games, if not for her glowing inner whatever, which is (unusually for a young actress in Hollywood) the whole thing with Lawrence: her beauty is a perk, but it's her charm and talent that make her so appealing.
That's why, I think, we can all extra-appreciate her cover for the all-important September 2013 issue of Vogue, photographed by Mario Testino. Yes, it's here. And I think it's great; Lawrence looks fresh, lovely and genuine. Fashion director Tonne Goodman styled Lawrence with a windswept 'lob' and her trademark black eyeliner, wearing Calvin Klein Collection. The actual fashion is, frankly and typically, indecipherable in the photograph, but the label reports that those impressionistic blobs hinting at expensive fabric are a "papyrus/black glen plaid wool flared waist shell and pleated skirt with a black leather/gold oversized military belt" from the Fall 2013 collection, designed by Francisco Costa.
If you’re a retro fashion lover or a fashionista who loves to learn a little more about trends from different eras, then you’ve got to pop down to the Victoria and Albert museum in London and check out its current Club to Catwalk exhibition.
Running from July until February 2014, it’s a feast of Eighties fashion favourites, and as the name suggests, the V&A exhibition looks at how the Eighties club scene actually affected the fashion scene at that time.
The Eighties, of course, is still considered one of the most creative eras for fashion, and especially for pioneering young London-based designers. The capital’s bubbling club scene was a theatrical platform for all different kinds of creatives to dress as experimentally as possible, and from which we saw new styles such as the New Romantic and High Camp bubble up onto the catwalks. The introduction of specialist clubs created for the different style tribes fuelled the phenomenon even further, and the creative link between fashion, music and catwalk has gone on to define the style of the Eighties.
So, if you’re partial to a bit of Boy George-infused fashion, you’ll definitely be inspired by this V&A exhibition, which includes 85 pieces from fashion designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Betty Jackson. For more info, visit the V&A’s site.
Sydney slashie power couple Bambi Northwood-Blyth and Dan Single aren’t ones to rest on their laurels – or their natural hair colours.
Ksubi co-founder Dan has been platinum for a while, but to fête the launch of her soon-to-be-husband’s new clothing range, Bambi’s had a pretty dazzling makeover. Okay, so her look is obviously a wig – and at least her Cara Delevingne-rivalling brows haven’t been bleached into oblivion, but it sure makes Single’s campaign that much more glaring.
The clothes themselves are a mix of staple graphic tees and pieces with a bit more flare. There’s all the paisley we were promised – cropping up on men’s board shorts and blown up on tracksuit separates – and the line’s founder has definitely stayed true to his intended aesthetic of menswear drawing inspo from womenswear. We kinda wish he’d hired his future wifey to model for the online store, just for the sake of seeing what that ‘Model Eating Death Eagles’ jacket would look like minus the broad shoulders.
With regards to Bambi’s own General Pants-released line, she’s just named the winner of her T-shirt design contest. The winning image – brace yourselves – is an ‘artistic homage’ to Bambi’s famous eyebrows. The tee is currently in development and the line is set to hit stores this September.
So back to the hair – oh the things we do for love. If you’re not pregnant or a sufferer of epilepsy, watch the campaign in motion over on General Pants’ website. And let us know what you think of Bambi’s über-bright makeover below.
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Yesterday, The New York Times
ran a big story
by Eric Wilson spotlighting the growing concern over fashion's predominantly white runways. It included something of a call to action from supermodel Iman
and the legendary agent, Bethann Hardison
, who both argue that the time has come for consumers to demand more diversity in fashion, by boycotting designers and rallying against them on social media. (This September, Hardison plans to spearhead a social media campaign calling out designers who have non-diverse casting at their shows.)
Iman: “It feels to me like the times need a real hard line drawn like in the 1960s, by saying if you don’t use black models, then we boycott. If you engage the social media, trust me, it will hurt them in their pockets. If you take it out there, they will feel the uproar.”
Runway shows often have more to do with generating publicity for a brand (which later pays off in, say, handbag or fragrance sales) than selling clothes, so it does seem possible that the threat of so much negative scrutiny could pressure some designers and bookers to cast (ha?) a broader net.
Fashion’s Blind Spot [The New York Times]