Givenchy is getting out of the couture show racket for a little bit, beginning with the next round of Paris shows scheduled for January.
The news about this is a little confusing, because there's some reason to believe that designer Riccardo Tisci will resume press showings of Givenchy couture at a later date, and this is just a temporary hiatus. The French fashion house confirmed to WWD that it "does not rule out couture presentations in the future." Here's the mystery: Why, exactly, did Givenchy make this decision now and what would need to happen for the brand to resume its participation in Paris' Haute Couture fashion week?
To be clear, Givenchy will not stop making couture, the brand will just stop showing it. There'll be lots of couture-y goodness to be had on red carpets near and far, particularly as Tisci is co-chairing the Met Gala next year, and so we can look forward to lots of Givenchy one-of-a-kind gowns at the so-called "fashion Oscars."
This latest development is in line with Givenchy's previous decision to shift away from the more traditional runway show and to a smaller, presentation-style format for its couture line in 2010. Despite all the fuss people are making about Raf Simons' efforts to develop a "new couture" at Dior, couture has held a precarious position in the fashion industry in recent years. Couture is expensive, time-consuming, and skill-intensive to create — and with fewer and fewer clients for the custom-fitted clothing, the collections have indeterminate value for modern fashion houses struggling to adapt to a new economic climate. Givenchy's move to cut its presentations is sad for anyone that likes looking at the pictures that come out of Paris during couture week, but it's a smart decision — and maybe a harbinger of what's to come.
Despite being surrounded by some much bigger names/faces (like Adriana Lima, Doutzen Kroes, and Arizona Muse) Bette Franke is the real star of this campaign. Even when she's not looking at the camera or someone's hand is blocking her face, I barely register the other models in the shot.
If Franke does have a co-star, it's Miu Miu's latest offering of shoes. The clothing is nice and everything (I mean, I would wear everything Franke is wearing in every picture, but some of the animal print and billowy denim dressing the other models is not my scene), but the shoooooesssss. I don't know how to express my longing and desire to own shoes like that and be the kind of person that owns and wears shoes like that (that's just a figure of speech, I'm actually perfectly happy being the boot-wearing person that I am) except by saying, shoooooesssss.
The campaign is set in a house I'd like to visit, and I think these are women I'd like to know. That is, this would be a house I'd like to visit and these would look like women I'd like to know if I wanted to live in an ambiguously sexual and kind of depressing love nest and be surrounded by people that often act in unnecessarily selfish and erratic ways.
I think that when I was a kid, I imagined I would become like one of these women someday (so dark and faux-soulful), not realizing that women like this exist only in luxury Italian fashion campaigns. That's a good thing: the models here might look beautiful, but they also look like they're a second away from having a nervous breakdown. Wish someone could make having it together look as aspirational as being a mess.
Givenchy campaign images tend to trickle out slowly, but we’ve got a good enough glimpse of the Spring 2013 ad campaign that we want to share what we’ve seen thus far. Designer Riccardo Tisci is known to have a bevy of fancy friends and muses, and this season, he’s featuring a bunch of them in the Givenchy ad campaign. Model Mariacarla Boscono is the only one of the group (that includes her baby daughter, Marialucas, Kate Moss, Marina Abramovic, Jose Maria Manzanares, Jared Buckhiester, and Francisco Peralta) who has appeared in a Givenchy campaign before. Unless the as of yet unreleased portion of this Carine Roitfeld-styled campaign contains any color images, it appears that photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott shot the campaign in black and white.
“My god, why would you shoot this in black and white?” asked LagerfeldBoy. “I was so eager to see the wonderful color palette of pastel pink, black, white, and red. Sigh.”
In terms of the images themselves, forum members had mixed feelings about the men’s shots – VogueDisciple93 said “they look like outtakes from a simple features editorial” – but were bowled over by Mariacarla (and baby).
“Mariacarla's shot is magnificent. This photo alone is enough for this campaign to be an unforgettable one!” dior_couture1245 declared. “It has everything in it that fashion has been missing the last several years – personality, innocence, soul, and love. Fashion should always be about WHO is wearing it. We've lost that important fact in this age of street style and blogging stars who pile on every IT item humanly possible to hide the fact that, on the whole, they're dull, uninteresting and sad people. All I see here is a proud, radiant mother holding her newborn and photographed in such a way that there is nothing gimmicky or objectified about it. It all looks so natural and so genuine!” he gushed.
“That shot of MCB and her baby is freaking gorgeous,” Elfinkova agreed. “Love the sleek/bold feel of these images. Striking and full of attitude without being too 'in your face.'”
I think it’s safe to say we can’t wait to see what else Givenchy has in store for Spring 2013 (Kate Moss’s contributions in particular). In the meantime, just watch this behind-the-scenes campaign video – over and over again if you’re anything like me – to see how seriously handsome these men are, because the campaign image released thus far apparently does them little to no justice.
David Sims photographed a (somewhat) stark and somber black and white ad campaign for Prada’s Spring 2013 menswear and I’m not sure if we should be surprised or not, but the label once again chose to procure actors as models. Spanning a 54-year age range, from Aaron Taylor-Johnson’s 22 years through Harvey Keitel’s 76 years, with Dane DeHaan and Benicio del Toro falling in between, the actors don’t have to work too hard to prove that Prada looks good no matter how old you are.
“I admit to loving that Miuccia [Prada] has given male models the heave-ho and used actors again,” laughed Luxx.
Though the so-called models in this campaign are a point of interest, several forum members voiced disappointment in the fact that the campaign was shot in black and white. “It's really unfortunate that they did the campaign in black and white considering how lovely the colors in the collection were,” shanhuq posted.
Heelscatchfire wrote, “The campaign is slightly forgettable, I prefer the previous one. I do, like some, wish it were in color. I don't mind the celebs, especially Dane, even though I love my models. I'm very glad he is included!”
It’s no surprise that forum members gravitated to Dane, who is perhaps the most model-esque of the bunch, but I think the actors, as non-models, are all doing their best (see a more complete representation of the campaign here). Despite the effort, this is nowhere near my favorite Prada campaign, and it definitely pales in comparison to the striking women’s campaign images (now that is how you cast a campaign) that came out yesterday.
For the past day, up until about an hour ago, Coco Rocha owned my Tumblr dashboard. By that, I mean she'd paid for a "Pinned Post" (one of Tumblr's ad products) which hovered at the very top of my screen, putting her words in my face every time I clicked over to the social network.
What was so urgent that Coco needed to monopolize the whole of my Tumblr attention span? The new Instagram terms of service, naturally, which have provoked a level of outrage that makes me really concerned about America's collective blood pressure.
The offending clause in Instagram's new terms of service:
“Some or all of the Service may be supported by advertising revenue. To help us deliver interesting paid or sponsored content or promotions, you agree that a business or other entity may pay us to display your username, likeness, photos (along with any associated metadata), and/or actions you take, in connection with paid or sponsored content or promotions, without any compensation to you. If you are under the age of eighteen (18), or under any other applicable age of majority, you represent that at least one of your parents or legal guardians has also agreed to this provision (and the use of your name, likeness, username, and/or photos (along with any associated metadata)) on your behalf.”
The reactions to this were, I think, overly dramatic. Melodramatic. Histrionic. Way too much.
A post on Mashable captures the general feeling: "Not only did you fail to see a red cent from the deal, but the whole experience of taking and sharing the pic seems somehow soiled."
The tech site was so proud of this sentence, they even used it as a pull quote. If you're expecting to find authentic experience and some kind of sense of transcendence on an iPhone picture sharing site owned by Facebook, a multinational Internet corporation, you and these new terms of service deserve each other.
Social sites want you to spend as much time as possible on them, not because they like you and want to make your life better, but because they hope to monetize both your eyeball attention and the information you give to them, because they need money in order to keep existing. You can't expect these companies to not try and profit from you, all you can do is either 1) choose not to use them or 2) be extremely careful about what you post on them.
Earlier today, Instagram issued an apology and backed away from the new policy. I think that's all thanks to Coco Rocha's Pinned Post. I'm glad my Tumblr irritation was not for naught.
This is probably a good time to let you know that we'll be beefing up our Instagram activity in the coming weeks, so you should give us a follow.
And if you aren't following the TFS Tumblr — come on, get it together already!