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Who’s That Guy? Raif Adelberg Hits the Mainstream

A little over a year ago, few people had heard of Winnipeg-born designer Raif Adelberg, who first cut his teeth running eminent Vancouver clothing boutique, Richard Kidd, from 2004 to 2008. Vogue and referred to it as one of the top stores to visit in the world, but stepping away from the register, Adelberg has since set out alone, establishing his own eponymous label.

Raif Alderberg at Barneys

Beginning with a luxury cashmere collection for men in the fall of 2011, which was quickly scooped up by Bergdorf Goodman NY, Adelberg moved on to a women’s collection for Spring 2014 that was picked up by Barneys. There he now sells oversized punk tie-dye cardigans in blues and reds, soft leather shorts with gently ruched waistbands and V-neck cashmere sweaters in openwork knits.

Prices are eye-watering at around $1000 a piece (duties and the like not included), but having opened a pop-up shop in Vancouver this past Christmas, I’m hoping he’ll do the same for his Fall 2014 collection, the eerily titled “Ghost in the Machine.” He tells Fashion that the theme is reminiscent of how he currently feels living on Bowen Island, BC.

Images via Barneys

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Link Buzz: Bobbi Brown Named EIC of Yahoo Beauty; New Dove Commercial Deemed ‘Bullsh*t’

  • Image: Joseph Marzullo/

    Image: Joseph Marzullo/

    Makeup mogul Bobbi Brown has just signed on as the editor-in-chief of Yahoo's beefy new beauty vertical. [The Guardian]
  • Brooks Brothers may be collaborating on preppy staples like seersucker suits with skate brand Supreme. [Racked]
  • Time for the fashion funnies. [FabSugar]
  • Dior and I, a new documentary about Raf Simons' first few days at Dior, has just premiered at the Tribeca Film Festival and it sounds fantastic. [The Cut]
  • It's fashion week in Australia and do you know what that means? There are people on the street, looking stylish. [BellaSugar]
  • Dove's newest commercial deemed "bullsh*t." [Jezebel]

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At a Glance: Two Decades of Teen Fashion Trends (and How Popular They Were)

teenagers girls shopping 90s

Image: Getty

Teenagers! They are moody, pimply and not very nice to each other. They Snapchat, sleep late and possess underdeveloped frontal lobes. 

They also have massive purchasing power — which tops out at $819 billion globally — and a big stake in pop culture. No wonder teenage retail is such a fiercely competitive segment; and no wonder so many full-grown adults take their style cues from teen fashion trends (cough cough Hedi Slimane). 

Here's a chart we spotted today on the digital financial outlet Quartz, which shows how these two factors — retail sales and teen clothing trends — have played out over the past two decades: 

teenage retail and fashion trends

Image: Piper Jaffray via Quartz

The index above, created by the investment bank Piper Jaffray, shows when specific fashion trends were popular over the past twenty years and how they correspond to underlying teen retail sales growth. So for example: you can see that chinos were big in the late Nineties, during a retail boom period, and that skinny jeans correspond to the recent period of economic decline.

"The economic cycle has a much bigger bearing on apparel retailers than fashion preferences do," writes John McDuling for Quartz. However, fashion trends are still somewhat connected to the overall economic outlook, as evidenced by the period representing 9/11 in the graph above: Both the sudden decline in sales and the depressing dominant fashion trend ("bleak colors") were presumably directly connected to the tragic event which preceded them. 

So where are we now? Coming out of the recession, Piper Jaffray is cautiously optimistic: 

"[The firm] thinks the beginnings of a 'replenishment cycle' led by colored denim pants could already be underway. However, it says, consumers are in 'pause' mode as they focus on 'editing' rather than 'investment' in their wardrobes. For growth to really return, Piper Jaffray argues, something bigger would be needed, ideally suitable for both sexes, wearable by people of all ages and sizes, and novel enough to get them to buy." 

[Two decades of American teen fashion in a single chart — Quartz]


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Marie Claire Cover Girls: Lupita Nyong’o, Emilia Clarke, Kate Mara, Elizabeth Olsen and Elle Fanning — Yep, All of Them!

Marie Claire's May 2014 issue will arrive on newsstands later this month (April 22) with a big, splashy cover package featuring five of today's shiniest young actresses: Lupita Nyong'o, Emilia Clarke, Kate Mara, Elizabeth Olsen and Elle Fanning. "Meet our FRESH FACES!" reads the caption which accompanies all five stand-alone covers, photographed by Cedric Buchet. (Nyong'o, Olsen and Fanning also appeared together in Miu Miu's Spring 2014 campaign.)

The issue features individual interviews which each actress, which are partially excerpted below. 

Lupita Nyong'o:

Lupita Nyong'o Covers Marie Claire

Image: Cedric Buchet/Marie Claire

On being called gorgeous: “Being called gorgeous is not a bad thing! But at the same time, I don’t want to thrive on people’s opinions of me.”

On waiting for her category at awards shows: “I wouldn’t wish it on my worst enemy. It’s not even about the outcome; it’s about the agony of the unknown. It’s like waiting for test results in a hospital.”

On this past year: “It was phenomenal. As brilliant as it was, onward ho. I hope that I will get to work soon. In due time, what I should do next and what I want to do next will reveal themselves. I am not in the business of trying to top this year – that’s virtually impossible. I’d have to be pronounced the queen of England or something.”


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Vogue Portugal May Cover Featuring Maria Borges is ‘Powerful’ (Forum Buzz)

There's always time for celebration when a model lands her first major magazine cover and this month, we congratulate Maria Borges on her first Vogue cover. The Angolan born model is photographed by Rui Aguiar for Vogue Portugal's May 2014 issue, as she wears a rather questionable black ensemble.

Vogue Portugal May 2014 cover Maria Borges


Quite frankly, I'm not overwhelmed here. Although most forum members are delighted with this particular cover, with TheoG writing, "One of the best Vogue Portugal cover images in a while, the styling is weird. But nonetheless a powerful image."

"I'm really confused by what she's wearing. Her face looks perfect though!" wrote Nepenthes.

GlamourousBoy also agreed: "She looks great but that black thing she is wearing is horrendous."

As did TeeVanity who wrote, "Maria looks absolutely gorgeous, but I am with most of you not feeling the clothes."

Vogue Portugal has produced some debatable covers in the past and I think this is yet another one. I'm with the members who don't understand the pose and use of the clothing here. It all makes for a very messy looking cover, even with the use of sleek fonts and a serviceable layout.

Join the discussion and voice your own opinion here.

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Alice Dellal Lands Chanel Eyewear Campaign (Forum Buzz)

Brazilian model and fashion favorite Alice Dellal is fronting Chanel's latest eyewear campaign for Spring/Summer 2014. The soft and pastel colored images captured by Karl Lagerfeld show Dellal in a different light from what we're accustomed to from the  26-year-old Chanel ambassador. This isn't Dellal's first campaign for the French fashion house; Lagerfeld also cast Dellal to front the 'Boy Bag' advertising campaign in 2012.

Chanel Eywear Spring Summer 2014 campaign Alice Dellal


The press release from Chanel reads: "The visuals, with their edgy yet gently romantic energy, present Alice Dellal as part rebel, part blossoming young girl, revealing another of her facets for a collection that's both feminine and in tune with the zeitgeist."

Dellal replaces the likes of Linda Evangelista and Claudia Schiffer as the face of the seasonal eyewear campaigns.

Chanel Eyewear Spring Summer 2014 campaign Alice Dellal


Check out the thread for even more campaign images here.

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