Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign, Image Credit: a-state-of-bliss.tumblr via the tFS forums
This week started off with more good news regarding the improvement of racial diversity in the fashion world. Not only did we get an unusually diverse casting at the Christian Dior Haute Couture show, we also got previews from Fall/Winter campaigns by major designers that cast several non-white models. DSquared went for an interesting concept in its Fall campaign, which was shot by photographers Mert & Marcus, that involves a cast consisting solely of black male models and female models of Asian descent. Chanel booked two Asians for the Fall campaign, Korean model Soo Joo Park and Japanese beauty Chiharu Okunugi, alongside Karl Lagerfeld’s new muse Ashleigh Good. And a preview shot for the Miu Miu campaign, shot by Inez & Vinoodh, features Brazilian newcomer Marina Nery and Moroccan stunner Hind Sahli.
TFS forum members are obviously pleased to see so many non-Caucasian models finally getting the recognition they deserve and being cast for blue chip campaigns.
About the Miu Miu campaign, member Fiercification, who was the first to post the images on the forums, said, “And the diversity trend continues! Loving Hind here!”
“Really proud of these diversity things going on in a lot of campaigns this season,” added Fashiognosis when commenting on the ad.
Fer19dog was another member who couldn't contain his excitement over seeing such a surprising and interesting model cast. “This is amazing!!! This made the rest of the year for me. Very happy for both girls, they look great and eye catching. Long live diversity!!!” he swooned.
Elfinkova applauded the art direction of the campaign itself and noted, “This looks like a Miu Miu campaign of the past – and I love it.”
Chanel Fall/Winter 2013 campaign, Image Credit: a-state-of-bliss.tumblr via the tFS forums
Reactions to the Chanel campaign were less positive. Valliaddict commented, “This is dreadful….that's all I can say. Dreadful.”
“This is so awkward and static. Karl doesn’t have a clue what he is doing…” mused jmrmartinho.
“I’m glad that I see more Asian girls than white girls …….for once in a campaign. But I’m not impressed with the result,” shared congacon.
I couldn't help but think the same when looking at those images from the Chanel campaign. While I appreciate the diversity here, it is really about the only highlight in these images. The confused concept, the awkward styling, the mediocre photography. It all seems a little random and lackluster. The good thing is that the models are definitely not at fault here. And with luxury houses as impactful as Chanel and Prada (whose Fall campaign includes Chinese model Fei Fei Sun and multiethnic beauty Malaika Firth, the first black model to star in a Prada campaign since Naomi Campbell in 1994!) embracing racial diversity more and more we hope that this diverse casting is not just a trend, but will eventually be the norm in fashion campaigns.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign, Image Credit: zinio via the tFS forums
Gisele Bündchen sharing the spotlight with other models only happens about once in a blue moon. But for Louis Vuitton’s top model-studded Fall/Winter 2013 campaign, we see her pictured alongside fellow Brazilian model Isabeli Fontana, iconic Estée Lauder face Carolyn Murphy and model/musician Karen Elson in the very same frame. As per usual, the campaign was shot by Steven Meisel, who managed to make the cast look harmonious rather than it seeming like the models were cast just for the sake of being well-known and expensive. The mood conveyed in the one shot that has been released so far is especially impressive. The cold but luxurious-looking setting, the sexual undertone to the models’ get-up, the dramatic makeup and the beautiful lighting all add up to a stunning image capturing the essence of the collection perfectly.
Members of the tFS forums liked what they saw, expressing mostly positive sentiments about the cast and concept of the campaign.
“THIS IS SO ICONIC ALREADY! It looks amazing, It fits so well with the clothes concept. I can’t identify a single flaw, it’s simply perfect,” gushed an excited jmrmartinho.
Tigerrouge admitted that “wigs aside, this is the first campaign that I've actually liked this season.”
And anlabe32 found that the shot was “alluring and appropriate for the collection” and, like many others, stated that she “cannot wait to see more.”
“Now this is what I call a campaign. Something there's an atmosphere that emanates from and in which I'm instantaneously absorbed. And of course, all of these supermodels in only one picture. I'm sold, this is perfection,” wrote Valentine27.
Testinofan couldn't help but notice that the campaign seems reminiscent of a Missoni campaign from the Fall/Winter 2008/2009 season, which was also shot by Meisel. An assessment several other members agreed with, although it did not seem to take away from their excitement over this campaign.
With a cast this phenomenal and a concept so universally appealing, it is no surprise most of us are delighted with what Louis Vuitton and its creative director Marc Jacobs delivered here. Since you most likely don’t want to miss when more shots from the campaign surface, follow our thread on the tFS forums: Louis Vuitton F/W 13.14.
Today, Raf Simons showed his seventh collection for Christian Dior as part of Paris Fall 2013 Haute Couture fashion week. Featuring a racially diverse runway for the first time since the designer took the reigns at the famed French fashion house, runway projections by Terry Richardson (and others), and even some cleavage-related controversy — publicity circus is a polite way of putting it.
1. Future Vogue cover girl and recent Acadamy Award winner Jennifer Lawrence still wearing Dior like it's going out of style.
The Miss Dior spokesmodel and perennial Dior red carpet-wearer attended the label's haute couture presentation on the same day that WWD broke the news that the Oscar-winning actress would make her debut appearance on the cover of Vogue for the publication's all-important September Issue cover, photographed by Mario Testino and presumably dressed in Dior.
2. Model Jourdan Dunn grateful that this time it's her boobs, not her skin color, that Raf Simons finds objectionable.
The 22-year-old British runway model tweeted the news when she learned she was axed from the high-profile runway show:
Yes, fashion is def the best:
BTW, this is what Dior-approved boobs look like:
And as luck would have it, they're Caucasian. But…
Over the years, sustainability and good ethical practice has been a growing concern within the fashion industry as a response to the rise of "fast fashion" retailers that create mountains of surplus stock. The tendency to shop vintage has helped along the lines of recycling, but that nowhere near solves the overriding problem.
That’s why we love the concept behind the company Reclaim to Wear, which creates on-trend clothing (just like those fast fashion pieces) using surplus stock, remnants and off-cuts from other fashion retailers’ leftovers. So, instead of recycling, they’re in fact upcycling!
Upcycling is a design solution that’s pioneering environmental change, and it’s something that you may already be familiar with when Reclaim to Wear collaborated with Topshop last year. The great news is that they’re back this year for a second collaboration with the high street giant via a summer capsule collection of the latest must-have pieces.
The capsule collection is comprised of nine pieces using disregarded floral prints from previous seasons, and it’s all been produced in Britain. Our favourite piece from the collection has to be the grey oversized plant print blouse (below left) as you’d really never guess that it’d been upcycled from leftover stock. There were also some gorgeous matching high-waisted shorts available in the same print but they've already sold out, which shows just how sought-after the pieces are.
Their clash panel summer dress (above right) is a great choice for those who like to rock that hippy vibe, and especially perfect for festival season. You can view the entire collection on Topshop’s site, and whether you love or loathe the pieces, there’s no denying that it’s a great concept that many more leading high street retailers should adopt.
Saint Laurent Mens Spring 2014, image: IMAXtree
If you can ignore the awkward model casting, that is. Hedi Slimane has once again opted to cast a bunch of anti-models for his show when presenting the new Spring 2014 Menswear collection in Paris last weekend. The disturbingly skinny boys that walked the show caused a major distraction for forum members who commented on the collection.
“This is like, the worst casting in the history of ever. About the clothes, some of it is good, some of it is excessive (cropped leopard tailored jacket? Really, now?) and most of it just isn't worth the price it'll probably cost,” wrote StoneSkipper.
The collection itself is aesthetically very much on par with everything else Slimane has shown under the Saint Laurent brand so far. However, forum members cited various improvements which they have noticed in this collection compared to last season. TheItGirl liked the shoes, many members were pleased with the various rather obvious sub-/popcultural references (the Teddy Boy movement and David Bowie were among those named repeatedly) and Marc10 was a fan of the whole collection and said, “Tailoring was impeccable, outerwear was impeccable, shoes were so good. I'm definitely in love, bound to be another hit collection.”
Saint Laurent is said to be doing well commercially, but Slimane's outings have hardly been a success amongst fashion connoisseurs thus far. In this collection, most tFS forum members did not like the fit of the pants, regardless of the fact that only freakishly skinny legs will fit into those anyway.
“The trousers look so bad on the models. What man wants those high waisted things?” asked TREVOFASHIONISTO.
And yesitsdagny added, “The top parts of the looks are rather good I'd say. There are some cool jackets and blazers. But the trousers and shoes are horrible. It must be the styling that makes the collection as a whole look so cheap…”
Saint Laurent Mens Spring 2014, image: IMAXtree
VogueDisciple93 seems to think that Slimane failed on all levels with this collection. He commented, “I honestly don't know how you guys can focus/notice the casting when these awful clothes make my eyes shudder. I opened the thread thinking that maybe he will put together a decent collection since last season was rock bottom. Well boy was I wrong, he just showed that rock bottom had a basement and it's this collection.”
Mr-Dale shared a less radical view and perfectly summed up my feelings about the collection as he wrote, “Genius? Idiot? Rebel? I don't know, but it sure makes it all very interesting.”
Image Credit: vogue.it via the tFS Forums
While for other magazines, such as i-D or Muse, it is completely normal to release multiple covers per issue, it is quite a rarity for Vogue Italia. For the July 2013 issue, Steven Meisel shot six different covers, all of which are foldouts and, according to the tagline, celebrate “Revolution… in 25 Years of Fashion.” Cover models include original supermodel Linda Evangelista, Gisele Bündchen, icons Raquel Zimmermann, Stella Tennant and Natalia Vodianova, as well as Meisel favorite Meghan Collison and new Prada faces Amanda Murphy and Cameron Russel, who share a cover. The first cover that was previewed on the tFS forums was Stella Tennant’s, which seems to be the main cover but was not received with much enthusiasm.
“To be frank I'm sick of Stella and I wish she would go away for a while,” admitted Fiercification.
He was not the only one to feel this way, with jeffandtheworld, Greenway, gossiping and vogue28 all making similar statements and agreeing that they would rather have seen another model in this.
And anlabe32 added, “She's become so boring and depressing to look at this point. She's the only flaw here. The rest looks fun and exciting.”
Others, like VogueDisciple93, did not comment on the cover model but found that the concept of the cover with Stella seemed “old.” And niknak voiced corresponding criticism saying, “I hate the theme honestly. I want something refreshing now VI. I want new(er) girls too!!”
Needless to say, forum members were delighted to find out there are several more covers to choose from and mused about which cover they liked most. And cottonmouth13 simply exclaimed, “These covers are absofreakinlutely amazing! I'm in love with all of them!”
In all honesty, none of the covers strike me as particularly interesting or unique, and I don’t quite share the excitement over these covers. The shots are so crowded with models, it is hardly surprising the mega cast is all one can focus and comment on. No doubt this model lineup is stellar and there is guaranteed to be at least one model you like among the cover stars, but do we really need a full editorial printed as different covers for just one issue? I am personally not so sure about that. But decide yourself and go on Vogue Italia’s website to see all of the covers for this issue.