AP Fashion Writer, New York
What looks silly on one fashion runway can be stunning on another, as Proenza Schouler proved Monday evening at its preview of spring styles. The harem pants and jumpsuits that looked gimmicky at other shows at New York Fashion Week were fantastic here in all their beaded glory.
These were definitely black-tie outfits, practically works of art mimicking the Deco era. They were covered in sequins–one was black and white, another silver and another all black with strategically placed cutaways–that created an optical illusion of movement if the light hit them right.
One audience member commented as she left the Park Avenue Armory, where the show was held, that the jumpsuits reminded her of Manhattan’s famous Chrysler building lit up at night.
Other outstanding outfits featured patent-leather portholes along the hem of a dress and up the legs of a pair of pants that was worn with a black viscose linen jacket and coated organza shirt. And the construction of the corset tops and dresses looked masterful.
Maybe designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, largely considered the most influential of the young designers, were aiming for a statement about the old industrial era meeting the technology-fueled future. Other looks had wide, stiff shoulders that one would expect on the costumes of a sci-fi movie yet were paired with interesting shoes with heels that looked like they were made of spare machinery parts.
And that was indeed the issue with some of other outfits–they were costumey. Sure, Proenza Schouler are trying to balance the drama that fashion editors are craving for their elaborate magazine shoots, but these guys need to sell clothes too.
Images courtesy of the Fashion Spot forums.