MODELING TERMS - A brief explanation of some of the more common modeling...

MODELING TERMS

A brief explanation of some of the more common modeling terms...

FIT MODELING: The model has specific, exact measurements wanted by the designer, and puts on sample clothes to allow the designer or tailor to modify them to fit and move properly. Fit models can be of any type, although typically are size 6 for women, and size 40 regular for men.

FREELANCE:

1. A model working without agency representation.

2. To work with multiple non-exclusive agencies.

GO-SEE: Literally taken from the phrase “go see someone”. In commercial work generally a go-see involves going to see (or be seen by) a person who is casting for a particular job. In fashion work it may be more general: you go see people who have a history of hiring models, so that when they have a job come up they will know who you are. Go-sees may be general (you are one of a type of model the client has asked for) or specific: the client has requested you specifically.

GUARANTEE: Some agencies overseas, especially in Asia, will guarantee that a model will earn a specified amount of money during her contract period of several months. No ethical US agency guarantees a new model anything.

IMAGE BOARD: Typically used for “special situations” models, such as those who are not available for go-sees, but can be direct booked.

INDEPENDENT CONTRACTOR: On most modeling jobs, the model will be legally treated as a contractor, not an employee, so the client will not withhold payroll taxes, pay workers compensation insurance, or do any of the other things they do for employees.

MODEL AGENCY: A company which represents models, attempts to get them work, and is compensated predominantly by taking a commission from work they have gotten the model.

MOTHER AGENCY: An agency or manager who puts a model under an exclusive contract and then promotes the model to booking agencies. Normally the mother agency develops the model. Generally the mother agent sponsors models to cities far from where the model lives and manages relationships between the booking agency and the model. A good mother agency will provide continuing advice, support and assistance to a model who is with another booking agency. Mother agencies are compensated by taking a percentage of the model’s earnings for some period of time.

NEW FACE: a model new to the agency, still in development, who is being sent on go-sees and castings but not yet “promoted” onto a main board.

OPTION: Also referred to as a “hold”. A client has requested the right of first refusal on a model during a specified time. That means the model is obligated to be available for the client’s job if booked, and may not accept any other assignment. A “first option” means that client has priority over any other for that time period. A “second option” (or “second hold”) means the client has a claim to the model if the person holding the first option decides not to book the model for that time.

PETITE MODEL: Different kinds of modeling define what is “petite” differently. In fashion work a “petite” is normally a model who is 5’7” or less and wears a size 6 or less dress. In other kinds of modeling the meaning is closer to the general meaning of the term: small, without regard to specific criteria.

PLUS MODEL: In fashion modeling, refers to a model who wears a much larger dress size than the standard fashion model, but otherwise is similar to a typical fashion model. In most markets Plus models are from dress size 10 to 20, sometimes larger. The term is not widely used in commercial print modeling, although it is understood to mean someone of average or greater body dimensions.

PORTFOLIO: A collection of photographs and tear sheets of a model, compiled and presented in a book.

PROPORTIONAL: client-speak for “has pleasing proportions”. In modeling, this means relatively long arms and legs, and a body that is slim, or has a well-formed waist, if a plus model.

RESIDUALS: Money paid to a model or actor for continued use of their pictures after the photo shoot. In modeling “residuals” typically are paid when the usage rights originally purchased by the client have expired, and the client wants to continue to use the pictures.

SCALPING: A model agency recruits a model to leave her current agency and sign with them. As you can tell from the term, it isn’t a practice that agencies appreciate.

SHOW CARD: A special purpose card, similar to a composite card, created to bring attention to an agencies models as fashion show season approaches.

SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT BOARD: Used for well-known models, celebrities or other special cases where the model is available to the agency by arrangements they have with the person’s mother agency.

SPECIALTY MODEL: A model who specializes in body parts such as hands, feet, legs, backs and other parts. Shoe models are a subset of this, since they have to have standard sized feet (size 6-7 for women, 10 for men).

STAGE PARENT: A derogatory term used to describe a pushy parent of a child model or performer.

STATS: (“Statistics”) A description of the model’s basic appearance parameters and sizes. For female models, stats usually include height, bust/waist/hips measurements, hair and eye color, shoe size and dress size. For male models stats include height, jacket size, neck, sleeve waist and inseam measurements, shoe size, and hair and eye color. For actors stats are limited to height, weight, hair and eye color.

STREET CASTING: A casting which uses non-professional models, sometimes literally found on the street, to give a stronger appearance of reality to an ad.

TEARSHEET: The actual printed page from a newspaper, magazine or ad that a model’s photograph is published in. So called because it is “torn” from the magazine. Appearance on a website does not result in a tearsheet.

TEST SHOOT: In years long gone by, a “test shoot” would be one in which a photographer had a new film, piece of equipment or technique he wanted to try out, or a model he wanted to try shooting in anticipation of using her later for a job. Usually in such shoots no money changed hands, and at most the model was asked to pay for the cost of having prints made for her book. More recently, “testing” has also come to mean any shoots for a model’s or photographer’s portfolio or composite card, and it is commonplace for photographers to charge for their services.

TONED: In real life, means slim and fit. In modeling, can also mean “very slim”.

USAGE FEE/RATE: Models get paid for two things: work they do on the set, and the right to use their images in advertising. Sometimes the fee will be “flat,” meaning it includes both. But often the two will be separately listed in the booking, and the model will get paid for a specific, limited use of their pictures. If the client wants to do something more than what they paid for (different kind of publication media, different target audience, longer time, different geographical region) the model will get more money for additional usage.

You can purchase the book here

Photos courtesy of Nicholas Routzen.

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