The technique of appliquéing cutouts of floral prints on a sheer ground was very popular in the 1930s, after first appearing in 1920s couture designs of Coco Chanel.
The torso of the dress is fashioned from bias-cut floral silk chiffon. The tulle hem border and back cape are appliquéd with matching floral print cutouts. This time consuming technique was generally found on expensive garments. The dress is worn over a bias-cut black silk crepe slip. They both slip over the head.
vintagetextile
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
The dress, obviously very expensive when new, is fashioned from gold and purple silk/lamé brocaded with metallic gold.
The silk chiffon neckline insert is embellished with gold and silver beads. The bodice has an under layer of matching silk chiffon that is beaded around the neckline edge. The dress closes on the side with hooks.
vintagetextile
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
This seductive dress, fashioned from sensual rayon velvet, features front torso ruching, a key hole neckline, and a slight back train. The waistline fullness can be adjusted with the back ties.
The collar, which closes in front with a hook, can also be worn open. The dress has its original bouquet of knotted thread flowers. The dress closes on the side with snaps.
The label reads "DCSB/Original Design."
vintagetextile
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
The dress is constructed with two layers attached at the neckline. The form-fitting torso and long sleeves of the outer layer are fashioned from black silk lace. I love the bold floral pattern of the lace. The delicate, feminine petals reach out to touch their neighbors. Nature and art together have flawlessly finished this floral jigsaw puzzle to adorn the female form.
The full skirt that flares below the hipline is bias-cut black silk chiffon. The under layer of the dress is a strapless, black silk crepe slip attached to a beige silk chiffon yoke. The sleeves and neckline are bias bound with black chiffon. The lace layer of the dress closes on the side with a snap; the sleeves close at the wrist with snaps.
vintagetextile
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
The dress slips over the head and closes at the shoulders with ties. The flirty skirt of layered ruffles dips lower in back.
vintagetextile
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
The lightweight black tulle shell is totally covered with sparkling sequins. It probably was originally part of a glamorous Hollywood-style evening gown.
The black yoke of the shell is lined with black silk chiffon. The shell slips over the head with no closure.
vintagetextile
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
The gown is fashioned from black cotton tulle totally covered with a Deco pattern of silver beads and black sequins. Wide bands of black sequins outline the neckline, side openings, and waistband. I love the way the waistband dips from its natural position in back to a deep "V" in front, emphasizing the curve of the hip.
The gown is totally lined with black silk crepe de chine. It closes in back with hooks and snaps.
vintagetextile
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
French gowns of this quality from the 1930s are difficult to find. By 1932, the Roaring 1920s were ancient history. Economics is main reason for the relative abundance of vintage clothing from the 1920s vs. the 1930s. Less fine clothing was created in the 1930s compared to the abundant production during the prior decade.
Our glamorous gown has a small "Made in France" label. Thus, we do not know its creator. The gown is fashioned from a cotton cheesecloth-type fabric that is a bit more substantial than tulle. The gown is totally covered with swirling patterns of gold sequins outlined with amber-colored glass beads.
The neckline, which is square in front, plunges to a deep "V" in back. The hips are accented with a draped peplum. The gown closes on the side with hooks and snaps.
vintagetextile
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
Cranberry Chiffon Velvet Manteau
Possibly Schiaparelli, French, circa 1930
The controlled narrow full length cape slightly gathered front and back to an elaborate cut, padded and foliate embroidered applied yoke, each side of front an applied panel, no size, no label.
doylenewyork
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
Metallic Gold Embroidered Capelet
French, 1930s
Creme wool capelet with high band collar, embroidered in neo-Balkan inspired pattern all around neck, front and hem with applied gold cord and faux turquoise beads, braided gold ball closure at neck, creme silk satin lining, no label.
doylenewyork
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
Chanel Inspired Black Lace Evening Dress
American, early 1930
Chantilly type lace, sleeveless with scoop neckline, rear self cape banded in silk tulle, slender body with hip yoke centered with a self bow, elaborate arrangement of hip level godets released into free flowing panels at knee, augmented by additional panels over an underlayer of lace, separate crepe slip, no label.
Believed to be an American reproduction of an original Chanel design.
doylenewyork
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
Black Bias Cut Chiffon Evening Dress
American, 1930s
Front fitted bodice with V-neckline and faux surplice closing, hand rolled chiffon capelets attached at shoulder and rear waist, slender skirt hem with one godet at each side and one at center back, each with three flared bias ruffles forming fishtail hem, self belt with diamante and faux carved red coral buckle, no label.
doylenewyork
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
Black Crepe and Lace Evening Gown
American, late 1930s
Fitted bodice with dramatic full raglan sleeves with radiating darts around wrist, front bodice geometrically seamed with lace triangle at center front midriff, lined with nude chiffon, flanked by two triangles of crepe, two triangles of lace at shoulder, rear bodice with transparent lace back open from neck to waist, flared bias skirt and self cumerbund, no label.
doylenewyork
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
Milgrim Couture Lavish Evening Blouse and Another
American, 1930s
The first of cinnamon chiffon shot with metallic gold lame flowers, flame and creme flowers with green leaves, surplice closure with exaggerated shawl collar, closing to left side on diagonal with faux beaded buttons and self loops, kimono sleeves with an applied pouf from upper arm past elbow, fitted to wrist with same closures, labeled: Milgrim.
The second of porcelain blue crepe, high neckline with small collar points at front forming high V-neckline, chevron motif of alternating metallic gold flower pattern with tangerine flowers, self button and handworked loops at either shoulder, short set in sleeves with open pleats at cap, side seams pleated at waistline, size 6, no label.
doylenewyork
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
Milgrim Hand Painted Chiffon Dress
American, early 1930s
The bias design of creme ground with lime and lemon stylized twining leaf pattern at sides, hem and short cape sleeve, draped neckline, self sash at waist of creme and lemon intertwined chiffon, ivory silk slip with picot edge, with original Milgrim faux bois print box, dress labeled: Milgrim.
doylenewyork
__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
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