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Old 07-07-2005   #1
kLm
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Men.Style.Com picks for F/W

http://men.style.com/fashion/style_notes - "insider trading"

Could this be any more boring? Of all the interesting items coming out, this is the best they can come up with? Project Alabama? I thought their stuff actually looked kinda cool, but gagged when I looked at the price tag. This article also makes it very clear that no one at Saks seems to be in tune with, well, anything.


And I love the quote below:

"I don't know what a guy would do if he didn't own a Libertine blazer. It says 'I'm a modern and groovy guy,' and we all want to be modern and groovy guys, don't we?"

Guys, I just don't know what to do, since I don't own a f'cking Libertine blazer--gun, pills, or rope?
 

Old 07-07-2005   #2
Frozen irony.

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hahaha. That just made me laugh. Thanks.

We all want to be groooooovy!
 
Old 07-07-2005   #3
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lmao you are such a groovy guy, kLm!

you are spot on about saks - i've been telling people that they need to hire me as their buyer for years. you can not believe the VAST amounts of women's CDG that's laying there gathering dust at 60% off.

Last edited by faust : 07-07-2005 at 03:47 PM.
 

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Old 07-07-2005   #4
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Ok, I actually looked at it. Most of it was crap, but it could've been much much worse.

This Margiela coat is the s&^t, I want it! I'm a sucker for these mop buttons... or whatever you call them.

 
Old 07-07-2005   #5
back in black...

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well...you know that quote is from a BARNEY's buyer...
and they are VERY 'tongue in cheek' over there...
so i think that has to be taken with the sense of humour that was obviously intended...a very dry dry wit...


but you are very funny klm......

 
Old 07-07-2005   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey
well...you know that quote is from a BARNEY's buyer...
and they are VERY 'tongue in cheek' over there...
so i think that has to be taken with the sense of humour that was obviously intended...a very dry dry wit...


but you are very funny klm......

actually it's from jeffrey, which explains everything . so how about my new margiela coat? you know it'll be hanging at bergdorf at 70% off. margiela, bergdorf, weird
 

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Old 07-07-2005   #7
back in black...

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ahh...

oops...


ok...scratch everything i said in that case...

ps-love the coat faust...
 
Old 07-07-2005   #8
kLm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faust
actually it's from jeffrey, which explains everything . so how about my new margiela coat? you know it'll be hanging at bergdorf at 70% off. margiela, bergdorf, weird
Yeah, Margiela at Bergdorf's is kinda weird. That is a nice item, I like Margiela, but still--there wasn't anything more eye-popping to be found? Freaking ties with flaming skulls on them? Cashmere LaCoste polos? Jesus!
 
Old 07-07-2005   #9
back in black...

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...
 

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Old 07-07-2005   #10
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I actually liked most of Saks and Bergdorf's choices - because they're appropos for their customer. As someone who works in fashion, I have to remember that my own style is not mainstream America's, or even certain levels of 'hip' New York. I and the male members on TFS (well, some of the more outspoken ones) tend to gravitate towards Belgian/European and more avante garde aesthetics, which is hardly the larger men's market at hand. Atelier can barely sell their stocks at full price, can you imagine trying to stock a mainstream store like Saks or Bergdorf with avante garde stuff like that? Cloak, for example, may be lauded editorially left and right, but so much of their stuff makes it to sale because frankly, there isn't a large enough market out there and they don't sell enough to stores. Male American tastes tend towards the more conservative, unfortunately.

That's why I think stuff like the classic men's brogue with a skull and crossbones pattern, or the Lacoste tee in cashmere are perfect choices for this article. They're just enough familiarity with just enough of a twist to merit buying new merch, because most men don't want to go for radically trendy styles. I'm surprised they were as forward as they were to begin with. Men.style.com is based on the clientele who read Details & GQ, not Arena Homme Plus.

That said, I thought Jeffrey Kalinski's choices are horrible. I think every single one of his picks is such old news. Thom Brown off the rack fits so few body types - and even fit ex-model Thom Brown himself looks squat and barrell-y in his own designs. And I don't know why he continues to buy Project:Alabama. Hong Kong brands have been making extremely detailed knockoffs for 1/100 of the price, literally. And Urban Outfitters produced a whole line of Libertine-like printed vintage jackets two Falls ago, so much so that a kid on the street can look like he's wearing Libertine for $45. But I suppose you can't blame Jeffrey for trying - he's advertising the merch he wants to move in his store.
 
Old 07-07-2005   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baklanyc
I actually liked most of Saks and Bergdorf's choices - because they're appropos for their customer. As someone who works in fashion, I have to remember that my own style is not mainstream America's, or even certain levels of 'hip' New York. I and the male members on TFS (well, some of the more outspoken ones) tend to gravitate towards Belgian/European and more avante garde aesthetics, which is hardly the larger men's market at hand. Atelier can barely sell their stocks at full price, can you imagine trying to stock a mainstream store like Saks or Bergdorf with avante garde stuff like that? Cloak, for example, may be lauded editorially left and right, but so much of their stuff makes it to sale because frankly, there isn't a large enough market out there and they don't sell enough to stores. Male American tastes tend towards the more conservative, unfortunately.

That's why I think stuff like the classic men's brogue with a skull and crossbones pattern, or the Lacoste tee in cashmere are perfect choices for this article. They're just enough familiarity with just enough of a twist to merit buying new merch, because most men don't want to go for radically trendy styles. I'm surprised they were as forward as they were to begin with. Men.style.com is based on the clientele who read Details & GQ, not Arena Homme Plus.

That said, I thought Jeffrey Kalinski's choices are horrible. I think every single one of his picks is such old news. Thom Brown off the rack fits so few body types - and even fit ex-model Thom Brown himself looks squat and barrell-y in his own designs. And I don't know why he continues to buy Project:Alabama. Hong Kong brands have been making extremely detailed knockoffs for 1/100 of the price, literally. And Urban Outfitters produced a whole line of Libertine-like printed vintage jackets two Falls ago, so much so that a kid on the street can look like he's wearing Libertine for $45. But I suppose you can't blame Jeffrey for trying - he's advertising the merch he wants to move in his store.
Bakla, I thought the exact same thing!!!
 
Old 07-07-2005   #12
trendsetter

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Quote:
Originally Posted by faust
Bakla, I thought the exact same thing!!!
Great minds think alike?
 

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Old 07-07-2005   #13
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I like the Margiela coat, Faust.
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Old 08-07-2005   #14
kLm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baklanyc
I actually liked most of Saks and Bergdorf's choices - because they're appropos for their customer. As someone who works in fashion, I have to remember that my own style is not mainstream America's, or even certain levels of 'hip' New York. I and the male members on TFS (well, some of the more outspoken ones) tend to gravitate towards Belgian/European and more avante garde aesthetics, which is hardly the larger men's market at hand. Atelier can barely sell their stocks at full price, can you imagine trying to stock a mainstream store like Saks or Bergdorf with avante garde stuff like that? Cloak, for example, may be lauded editorially left and right, but so much of their stuff makes it to sale because frankly, there isn't a large enough market out there and they don't sell enough to stores. Male American tastes tend towards the more conservative, unfortunately.

That's why I think stuff like the classic men's brogue with a skull and crossbones pattern, or the Lacoste tee in cashmere are perfect choices for this article. They're just enough familiarity with just enough of a twist to merit buying new merch, because most men don't want to go for radically trendy styles. I'm surprised they were as forward as they were to begin with. Men.style.com is based on the clientele who read Details & GQ, not Arena Homme Plus.

That said, I thought Jeffrey Kalinski's choices are horrible. I think every single one of his picks is such old news. Thom Brown off the rack fits so few body types - and even fit ex-model Thom Brown himself looks squat and barrell-y in his own designs. And I don't know why he continues to buy Project:Alabama. Hong Kong brands have been making extremely detailed knockoffs for 1/100 of the price, literally. And Urban Outfitters produced a whole line of Libertine-like printed vintage jackets two Falls ago, so much so that a kid on the street can look like he's wearing Libertine for $45. But I suppose you can't blame Jeffrey for trying - he's advertising the merch he wants to move in his store.
While I understand your point, I think you miss my point--which I perhaps didn't make clear. I certainly wouldn't expect Cloak, as per your example, to be included in an editorial that featured product from Saks or Bergdorf. The point is--or my point is, rather--that the fellow from Saks couldn't find ANYTHING more interesting in their entire fall lineup that was more unique and exciting than Mosley Tribe Legacy Sunglasses? I'll give you the LaCoste cashmere, because for reasons beyond me the alligator is "in" right now (although, if it is going to sell anyway, why feature it in valuable space?). I'd wager you quite a bit of money that the toile-print shirt from Etro featured from Bergdorf's is going to be awfully easy to find on the sale rack in January.

This isn't about me being fashion-forward and therefore closed-minded about this article; I understand their target markets (although if how well Saks sells through in Boston is any indication of their company health, I wouldn't be looking to invest in their stock). I'm just having trouble even picturing their target market being particularly excited about many of these items.

On a side note, I wonder if Neiman's or Saks picked up Cloak (or insert your-favorite-non-mainstream-label here) and pushed it hard, if it would sell to the the man who favors the more conservative look--since the retailers sort of control what the conservative look is by what they stock. It seems to be a bit of a chicken-and-egg thing; if men could only buy the Belgians at these stores, would we see everyone in Dries, Demeulemeester and Simons? Or would they just lose their business completely? We won't find out, but sometimes you have to wonder just who is really maintaining status quo.
 
Old 08-07-2005   #15
back in black...

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one thing i know for sure..
you can't make people buy or wear something they aren't into....
so i think that's your answer klm...

 

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