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Old 27-09-2008   #1
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Life in 3-D S/S 09

Seems like the architecture that popped up last season in collections like Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein has caught on. So far, designers are playing with extreme shapes, architectural pleating and sharp lines and creating some very interesting shapes in the process. With Paris next on the schedule, I have a feeling we'll see more of this.

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Old 27-09-2008   #2
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Dolce and Gabbana



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All I want to do is fur pants, but I know, like, if I do them I'll get stoned off of Seventh Avenue like some kind of wanton heretic or something. So there won't be any fur pants coming down my runway - Isaaz Mizrahi

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Old 27-09-2008   #3
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Giles / Marchesa


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All I want to do is fur pants, but I know, like, if I do them I'll get stoned off of Seventh Avenue like some kind of wanton heretic or something. So there won't be any fur pants coming down my runway - Isaaz Mizrahi

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Old 27-09-2008   #4
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is it revealed what they are using to sculpt the material that way..
it seems quite stiff but also pliable enough to walk in

an interfacing ?
or maybe the material is advanced + actually stiff

the gianfranco ferre sleeks are delicious
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Old 27-09-2008   #5
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I hope I`m not jumping the gun, but this trend seems like something that could actually be considered `new` for the current decade. These extremely exaggerated shapes trickling down to so many collections...
...in a year or so, will we see zara-ites sporting square box shapes a la Calvin Klein off their sheath dresses?
Those shoulders at Dolce Gabbana are wild-- and lots of fun.

If it is advancements in textiles that have helped perpetuate this, then I say `life in 3-D` FTW

Thanks for bringing this up, Spike!
 
Old 27-09-2008   #6
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I think the advancements in fabric definitely has something to do with this. All you hear about lately is designers working with fabric mills to produce all different types of fabrics that are bonded or mix different natural fibers with improved synthetics to give fabric enough stiffness that they don't require interfacing. I don't know if that applies to all of these looks, but the Dolce and Gabbana pieces for example don't look like they have any additional padding or interfacing to keep them stiffened. Same with the Calvin Klein.
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Old 27-09-2008   #7
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I'm just pondering over this, and Robert Cavalli mini dresses also look quite stiff in shape, they may not be comfortable to wear down the street, anyway they look so magnificent on the runway. I love this trend!
 
Old 27-09-2008   #8
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interesting conversation, thanks for starting this spike. as an obeserver, without any measurable knowledge in textile design, I cant see how some of these aren't somewhat stiff, not necessarily rigid but at least a thicker weight that takes a form. Marchesa and Versace seem so but Calvin Klein gives me a softer feel and the folds seem to have be sewn and pressed to get the shape.

it's so cool to see this new realm opening up...
 
Old 27-09-2008   #9
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This is very 1950's idea of what our modern day would be dressed like. (Minus the flying cars ) But I really dig it.
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Old 27-09-2008   #10
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Gareth Pugh (so surprises there)




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All I want to do is fur pants, but I know, like, if I do them I'll get stoned off of Seventh Avenue like some kind of wanton heretic or something. So there won't be any fur pants coming down my runway - Isaaz Mizrahi

my blog - random musings of a fashion fiend
 
Old 28-09-2008   #11
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the Gianframco Ferre are definately the best ones so far

CallItTreason - I loved your comparision to the 50's idea of the future

Mishahoi this is definately something that could be considered a new trend but I wonder how well these collections will sell since they're very extreme, I can see more modified versions getting big though
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Old 28-09-2008   #12
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^ also if it is even possible for street brands to produce this kind of technique
the alternative to using high-tec fabrics / blends would be tailoring, no ... which won't allow anyone to sell a shirt like this for $25 lol . nonetheless

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Old 29-09-2008   #13
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I think by geometrically cutting, concave darts and pleats, and origami techniques, this look would be achieved without using hi-tech fabric..but you're right, gius, that would mean more pieces and details which never is a good idea when you're trying to mass produce and sell things at $20 dollars. And realistically, these are not really for the faint of heart anyway
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Old 29-09-2008   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiddokiddo View Post
I think by geometrically cutting, concave darts and pleats, and origami techniques, this look would be achieved without using hi-tech fabric..but you're right, gius, that would mean more pieces and details which never is a good idea when you're trying to mass produce and sell things at $20 dollars. And realistically, these are not really for the faint of heart anyway
Yes this is exactly what I was getting on to. For those who follow HC, these shapes are nothing new. However, to see them show up on the runway- in so many shows at one time, and on mainstream labels such as Dolce and Gabbana and Calvin Klein, I think is definitely a step in the direction of *possibly* seeing it trickle down to mass appeal- with some modifications of course.
 
Old 29-09-2008   #15
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^def will see watered down versions of this trend in mass for sure

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