the Fashion Spot

ilaughead · 27-01-2008

Now that the last shows have wrapped up and most of the clothes well digested, I think it's time to evaluate the collections of the season!

So...overall, not a very good season. Pretty boring for the most part, actually. I'll be skipping over any shows that I wasn't interested in.

Raf Simons - Everything in this show was amazing. The sparing usage of color, the shapes, the textures. All of them combined to make a look that seems perfect for now.
Bernhard Willhelm - The most innovative show of the season. His vision is generally too crazy for me, but this was perfect.
Yves Saint Laurent - The opening suits stole my heart forever. The video was disappointing, but the clothes made up for it.
Ann Demeulemeester - I had no idea Ann could use color the way she did. In a season of blacks and greys, this was exactly what I was looking for.
Lanvin - As usual, Lucas hit a homerun. I love the more formal look to the clothes in contrast to last season.

Fendi - Absolutely beautiful, but a little derivative.
Gucci - I really think Frida hired a secret assistant she hasn't told anyone about. This looks much less commercial than what I'm used to seeing from her.
Jil Sander - I love the plain grey suits, but the marble prints and bright colors aren't my taste at all.
Burberry Prorsum - The first few looks were okay in their standard Burberry styling, but past that, it was a feathery nightmare. Christopher needs to know when to stop.

Dior Homme - Not like I expected much out of him, but Kris disappointed me.
Prada - I don't know if I'll ever be able to think about Miuccia again without an involuntary shudder...

Can't wait to see everyone else's lists!

Ianastar · 27-01-2008

Im always in love with the same ones.

For me it was Burberry and YSL

TheVeed · 27-01-2008

I agree with you but I actually really liked Gaultier a lot.

xixixixi · 27-01-2008

"Ann Demeulemeester - I had no idea Ann could use color the way she did. In a season of blacks and greys, this was exactly what I was looking for."

I absolutely agree with you !!

amboloney · 27-01-2008

I love Burberry Prorsum the most.... it is a continue work of FW 2006/07 (one of my favorities). I also love YSL, but probably the style would be too old for me to carry....something about the color that impress me in YSL.... but I cannot tell if it is due to the video presentation though....

**Spike413** · 28-01-2008

YSL - Most of it was extremely chic. I loved the proportions and that fact that he, unlike a lot of menswear designers today, thinks of someone other than trendy, rock star types.

Prada - With the exception of the ridiculous tutus, halters and thong straps, there were things that truly interested me. I loved the deep, vibrant colors and the jacquards.

Gianfranco Ferre - In a similar vein to YSL, very much a dandy, grown up take on luxe, and I LOVED the trousers.

The rest is a blur of things that aren't my taste and a load of crap.

Casius · 28-01-2008

Ann D.- After what I thought of as a lackluster Spring presentation, she really stepped it up for F/W 08/09. The color palette was excellent and the prints fit in perfectly and the textures were great. All around solid collection.

Damir Doma- Someone I'm definitely keeping my eye on. The silhouette was a lot better this season and it seems as though he has progressed quite a bit in just one season. The burnt rose was a nice highlight among the greys and blacks.

YSL- Pilati is doing great things with YSL. Proportions are fantastic and still very masculine. Great utilization of color as well.

Still waiting to see Rick Owens....

Raf Simons- Big dissapointment for me. The silhouette is too feminine, shoes too bulky, and the clothing just seemed life-less. I got much more of a 'feeling' from his Spring collection.

Jil Sander- This should have been Raf's mainline. Some interesting pieces overall, especially in the outerwear (the ribbed pieces look excellent). I don't like the marble prints but the 'crazy plaid' was pretty cool. Can pants get any slimmer?

Yohji- Same ol', same ol'. I loved some of the jackets that open/zip to show the tartan plaid. Some of the trousers looked insanely baggy, in a bad way.

Junya- I was expecting something different from the Spring collection but it's basically the same thing. But with said, I do like it. Kinda reminds me of Thom Browne...

fouroclock · 28-01-2008

Menswear faves without explaining:

Dolce e Gabbana
Bottega Veneta
John Richmond
Fendi
Gaultier
Ute Ploier (?)

I think this season a lot of the menswear designers tried new things but barely worked. The only instance that worked was with Ute. Nonetheless, the classics are still the best.

Danish · 28-01-2008

The one that really wow me was YSL. The video was pretty dull thought. 2nd is Burberry, Gucci, Gaultier and YY

**gius** · 28-01-2008

I also liked Burberry
it stood out to me the most

There are several unwearable things, like the laser-cut fur coat that looks like scales, but the colours in the feather shirts are quite sombre enough but with a good amount of colour not to overpower the wearer

There is also introduction of laces and various fabrics to create texture.. it's very interesting

..Calvin Klein also had some nice print effects

In terms of silhouette, Jil Sander stood out --it was curvaceous
but for myself I don't want to sport that look

Quote:

Originally Posted by amboloney

I love Burberry Prorsum the most.... it is a continue work of FW 2006/07 (one of my favorities). I also love YSL, but probably the style would be too old for me to carry....something about the color that impress me in YSL.... but I cannot tell if it is due to the video presentation though....

god_save_hedi · 28-01-2008

Lanvin was awesome except the shoes
YSL was realy dandy
Burberry and Jil had many wearable pieces. raf's mainline also did
Westwood and McQueen had a wounderful presentation of the collection.
Galliano was extremely good this time, one of the most beautifl runways
Marni is now one of my favs. very chic pieces.

ivoooo · 28-01-2008

my best faves:

Dolce & Gabbana
Versace
Gucci
Yves Saint Laurent
Prada

4n98 · 28-01-2008

my list:
PRADA
YSL
BURBERRY PRORSUM

TheR · 28-01-2008

without going into to much detail

D&G

and Dsquared..

and id jus like to make a comment on prada...it was way to feminine even for my liking.

JJohnson · 28-01-2008

Dior Homme- a change of pace, a more mature look which is good for business. Moving away from teenagers to young adults and aged men is key to increasing profits (they actually have money to buy) The collection itself seemed awkward because of the detailing and focus

Raf Simons/Jil Sander- a look towards nature and art..still loving the colorblocking and a knit from either line is crucial!!

Galliano- loved the boots and that vest fabricated from shimmery material

Comme des Garcons- Rei exploited our yearning for all things English with a logo/clear statement. It remained very satirical, while the dress shirts singlehandedly made a statement

Givenchy- Bring Oswald back!

Martin Margeila- Intergalatic meets Italian tailoring. Some odd items, but a good balance. The mens eyewear line doesnt seem as cool as the womens though...

Gucci- According to Tim Blanks “Frida Giannini had a vision of Russia in her head...” more like Frida is f*cked up in the head....GROSS!!! The accessories are usually good, but the show itself was completely overstyled (same with the campaign)

Prada- womenswear came a bit earlier....and even this womenswear was YUK!!