I've seen these on stylezeitgeist and slightly underwhelmed because it looks like Damir Doma and Julius' child. Nothing distinctive that stands out, it's a shame cause I do like the clothes, hoping for a signature from him
if the garments are even close to as nice in person as the current f/w is, this collection will be great as well. I don't personally like the presentation as much as the previous one which showed the looks much better, and the b&w photos take a bit away of the whole impression, but it still looks neat in its own way.
based on the current collection, I'd say he definately has some signature elements. for example the use of treated fabrics, I have a jacket from him that is some sort of waxed cotton and linen, there are jeans in the collection that also have a nice waxed and crumbled texture to them. he also uses great knits, including a thick cotton knit for some of the cardigans and also a really nice, soft bamboo knit. another signature element of his is using string/straps for various purposes. for example on the bamboo knit cardigan there is a string that can tighten the waist, and two that can lift the hem in the back creating a really cool silhouette.
Boris is definately my favourite new designer, cant wait to see more of his stuff in person.
since there isn't a topic for the current f/w collection, I will post a few images here:
Until this fall, the name Boris Bidjan Saberi might have not rung a bell even among those who keep a close eye on mens fashion. His self titled label has still stayed under the mainstream radar, but among those who've come across the brand, it has generated a lot of interest and profound appreciation. Saberi has presented his collections since s/s 08 at the Barcelona fashion week, and in fall 2008 his garments started reaching stores such as L'Eclaireur in Paris and Darklands, Berlin. With an edgy and distinct style utilizing innovative materials and details, many foresee Saberi as one of the freshest young talents and possibly the next big thing in avant garde menswear. Scoute talked to the designer in Barcelona about his background and work.
Tell us, who is Boris Bidjan Saberi? My whole name is Boris Bidjan Saberi Moghaddam Teherani, I am half German, half Persian, a regular human being. My life has always been very influenced by nature and an eccentric lifestyle; skateboarding, snowboarding, climbing and such. Hiphop-culture and that culture mix between Iran and Germany have played a part.
You work in Barcelona though, when did you move there?
I moved to Spain at the age of 24, six years ago, to gain a more profound knowledge in my profession. My atelier and the production [of my line] are located in the countryside of Barcelona.
What are you doing right now besides answering questions? Listening to music, right now to Early Morning Silence by Glue.
That’s a good track. So tell about you and fashion.
The big fashionpotatodumpling is not my world. I prefer to stay a bit outside of it and do what I love to do. I love to invent and experiment, to touch and to get my hands dirty testing things.
When did you grow interested in it, then? My first interest towards appearance in a way, or expressing yourself, was when I was 6 years old and walking through Munich with my parents. I was totally fascinated by a group of punks in the street. Thinking about it today, they were probably from another city because they were too perfectly dressed and authentic for Munich.
What about designing, when did you make the decision to become a designer and what triggered it? I’ve had a desire to make clothes for as long as I can remember, my father’s sewing machine never got me bored. Then it became something that I wanted to study and get more knowledge in.
So how about your time studying?
I learned a lot, I took in everything I could to know more. I think my classmates thought of me as a nerd. Everything I learned I transformed into physical experiments. During my first year I started an accessories brand, U Can **** W. I soon collaborated with a manufacturer in Spain and started directly using various kind of machines, I was like a curious child. From the second year onwards, I started exhibiting in shops and festivals, some competitions and shows.
Can you tell a bit more about the accessories line?
I was always fascinated by leather, its a very interesting and a never ending raw material. It gets old with you and always depends on youe way of living and using it. It lives with you, and thats what the name also means; you have to do everything with product and it becomes a reflection of your lifestyle. I made bags sewn with a 2 needle system, keyrings, bracelets and chains. I worked with silver and brass and did finishes using a lot natural materials, wax, different oils, water, sand, even the sun.
So how did you end up with the clothing line?
Directly after finishing my studies, the Spanish government’s 080 Barcelona Fashion project and Totem Fashion took me to Barcelona’s fashion week, where I presented my first collection for S/S 08 – NET3X3.
Had you planned launching the label for long?
I always had the desire, but it took a lot of planning and knowledge to make that step.
What has your personal style been like in the past? I always had a desire to wear things that not that many people would wear, from the first day of school untill now. I was always transforming clothing that I bought.
So that probably influenced your current style a lot. I’ve more or less carried that same style since I was skateboarding at twelve years old to this day. I’m wearing my own made pieces, even damaged experiments or prototypes. I like black colour because of the power it has, its a mood and a lifestyle. It makes me feel comfortable, brings my euphoria into a balance.
What about other influences? Music, nature. Smelling, looking and touching. I like artists like Andy Goldsworthy, H.R. Giger and Mode 2. Photographers like Jacob A. Riis and Guy Calaf.
Looking at the garments, there seems to be a very strong focus on details and finish - I assume that is an important aspect for you? I love the details of a fabric, a feeling or expression of the work done and what has happened to it. It gives a story to a garment. I love to create stories with my pieces, as strange and difficult as possible. Patterns are a never ending tool of making pieces seem impossible but finally perfect. Natural resources are a perfect way to give life to a piece.
"I love the details of a fabric, a feeling or expression of the work done and what has happened to it. It gives a story to a garment. I love to create stories with my pieces."
How would you describe your design process?
My working process is my daily life, things that happen, things I see, feel smell or just think about. Then its a lot of experiments to get to perfection.
The label is currently carried in a rather small amount of exclusive stores, how has it worked out? It worked out on its own. I think its quite complicated to sell my product, but the shops are doing a very good job. They are the final part of my team.
Do you intend on keeping the retailers as limited, or would you like to expand? I would never increase availability or expand if the product suffers on it. Quality and perfection is essential for me.
The new s/s collection seems to follow well along with the style you introduced in earlier seasons, do you have any specific plans for upcoming collections? My never ending story is the Persian part of me. It’s my most unknown part and I have a desire to find all the answers to my questions. My life is sort of a never ending search of new invention and experiments which I couldn’t stop.
Thats something to look forward to. Any final words?
Be sensible to the world. Stay real, live life to the fullest.
Natural resources are a perfect way to give life to a piece.
i'd def be interested in seeing some of this past accessories line and experiments/exhibitions of his ...
he seems big on trying new things/ideas/techniques
does anyone know if he works directly with a factory or maybe he does his own tests by hand first... like carol christian poell does i think (and i was told it's only at the factory where they produce it on a bigger scale..)
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