This has to be my fav couture collection this season. Luv the presentation too. It is raw but yet delicate because of the construction of the clothes...got an underground appeal to it!
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We Ought Never To Forget That A Low Price For Bad Things Is Not Cheapness Hedi Slimane*Azzedine Alaia*Helmut Lang
Goergeous! Fantastic! I am totally loving the librarian chic thing going on here... absolutely spectacular dresses and detailing. Sharp suits, sharp styling... love it!
I it, and I didn't last season's R-T-W, so this time I'm more than glad. I do like his method of stage presentation... these clothes seem born to an eerie calm. The combination of haunting and controlled gives me the odd feeling undoing a seam would be akin to opening pandora's box
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see the infant sun
whose time has come to climb the mist
touch the autumn sky
burned by the supernaturalist
The presentations don't quite work for me either. I think Cathy Horyne wasn't fan as well. It just doesn't work, I feel like he can incorporate the same sense of pacing and display without it be so obvious. The colors are what would be expected given the S/S06 show and Tisci's demonstrated tastes. I feel as though this should be considered mediocre in a world where couture week was filled with amazing houses competing with years of quality and experience. But instead, because Dior has become trashed and Chanel jaded, it takes the beginners work of a recently fledgling designer to keep people on track of what couture standards should be. But I suppose that is what Galliano and Lagerfeld orginally came on to their respective houses to do.
This is a noble effort from Tisci who I feel still hasn't gotten used to working in an Atelier. His ideas as nice as they are, seem a bit to obvious in the regards to Tisci's aesthetic and blatant connections to Givenchy's ready to wear. The soft pink gowns with their flowing floor length hems and feather appliques, as beautiful and red carpet worthy they were, were not quite as believable as couture. The black sihlouettes and matching painted model's faces were again wonderful but wouldn't be out of place next month at the Paris ready to wear shows. The poppy red ensembles or the white skirts and matching blouses were well executed and naturally well made but did not convince me it was indeed Couture.
The one look that stood above the others was the white bunched gown worn by Maria Carla. The intricate and gracefull loops and bunching was reminiscent of Vivinne Westwood's similar experiments but with perhaps a bit more refinement and "french" essence. To me this was the most confident as couture, not because of it's excessive use of fabric (galliano's favorite trick), but because it actually takes an atelier to discover and create. The range and resources enjoyed with an haute couture atelier peak at the limits of what a little old woman can do with her fingers...and that's quite a bit actually. Ricardo needs to take more confidence in what his vision can do with the proper tools. Not that I can blame his hesitance, Givenchy is notoriously hard to design for without falling into traps (Mcdonald) or forgetting what the house really is (mcdonald and mcqueen). When Tisci can firmly establish who the Givenchy woman is conceptually, he will then be able to explore what she looks like in the atelier fully.
I was really stoned when I wrote this and I find myself in sobrierty disagreeing with about half of it. I still think that Tisci needs more time in the atelier but clearly he was able to do wonders. I think it will be exciting to see him grow as he gains more confidence and comfort.
Goergeous! Fantastic! I am totally loving the librarian chic thing going on here... absolutely spectacular dresses and detailing. Sharp suits, sharp styling... love it!
cant get "librarian chic" out of my mind...i love that... karma for coming up with such a phrase
*EDIT, ill have to give it later since I cant give it now...
I'm starting to like this a lot more. But some of it is rather turgid, no doubt it took an impressive amount of skill, but I can't escape the feeling that all I'm looking at is an inanimate object being decorated.
I agree with those who have complained about the presentation. I'm personaly not a huge fan of installations to begin with, but his come off as rather silly imo. He could certainly do something very creative without a traditional runway without having the models mope around in whatever strange tableux he's imagined.
The clothes however, are beautiful. The whole mood feels so much less tortured than last season, perhaps it's the colors, those few blush/red pieces really liven it up.
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All I want to do is fur pants, but I know, like, if I do them I'll get stoned off of Seventh Avenue like some kind of wanton heretic or something. So there won't be any fur pants coming down my runway - Isaaz Mizrahi my blog - random musings of a fashion fiend
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