The Preen team : The couple behind Britain's hottest label
The Preen team
The couple behind Britain's hottest labelAlice Fisher
Sunday May 18, 2008 The Observer
Preen is a funny name for Preen, when you think about it. The verb suggests excessive self-love or self-satisfaction, and there couldn't be a less apt description of Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, the duo behind the label, or of their designs.
The London label has gone from strength to strength in the past 12 years, a success story that is due to sales, rather than the sort of sponsorship deals that keep most small designers solvent. The decision to quit London Fashion Week for New York, in 2007, confirmed the label's international status, and all this achieved without compromising their design aesthetic: intricately embellished clothing that teams a perfect cut with unusual design elements. Preen's cocoon coats will go down as a style classic; they made the best drainpipe trousers before you even knew you wanted drainpipes; their bandage dresses made last season's body-con trend bearable, and their ruche-sleeved blouses have already made it into the V&A.
'Fashion is a tough industry,' says Thornton. 'I think the reason we've survived is because we knew we had nothing to fall back on. We never had loans. All we ever got was a £2,000 grant from the Prince's Trust when we started out - the first thing we bought was a sewing machine. We've always supported ourselves and that meant we learnt quickly what people liked and what clothes sold.'
'We were so naive when we started,' admits Bregazzi. 'I did a business course at fashion college, but it wasn't enough. You just learn as you go along. We had to spend so much time on the nasty business stuff that we had hardly any time to design, so when we did get to be creative - woo hoo!'
That sense of thrill is still apparent in Preen designs. Though they first made their name with Victoriana and fairy-tale outfits - bodices made of recycled hair, tunics decorated with old keys - their recent collections have focused on silks and cashmere, with interesting details, such as straps and drawstrings, that mean they can be worn in a number of different ways. This season's jumpsuits, kimono dresses, lace bodies and tulip-shaped skirts are also clever as well as pretty.
'When we started, we were inspired by vintage, now we deconstruct our own designs from previous collections,' says Thornton. 'We think about people like us,' adds Bregazzi, 'our friends and the wardrobe they need.'
The couple do admit to arguing over collections. The couple is a couple after all. They met aged 18 in their native Isle of Man and started working together in 1996 when British designer Helen Storey asked them to collaborate on one of her collections.
'Two heads are better than one,' explains Thornton. 'The great thing about being together so much is that we experience everything together. We're inspired together.'
'Should it be shorter? Shall we add a drawstring? Is it too cumbersome? It's ridiculous how long we can debate about colour and buttons,' says Bregazzi.
But their attention to detail doesn't slow their impressive progress. In addition to mainline Preen, the duo have designed an annual capsule collection for Topshop since 2003 and they launched Preen Collection this season. The diffusion line of swishy, fancy dresses has found favour with celebrities such as Amy Winehouse, Gwyneth Paltrow and Chloe Sevigny, A-listers who want something a little different for red-carpet events. 'There's a new wave of cooler actresses who go to events who don't want to wear Valentino,' says Thornton. 'It was a gap in the market.' A smart business move as it turned out, though the pair are bemused by the fascination with celebrity and fashion. 'When I was growing up, I looked up to Pepsi & Shirlie, no one thought about Hollywood actresses because they were so removed from our lives,' says Bregazzi.
Preen is also launching an accessories range in Spring/Summer 2009, which, if a huge success, is not something you're likely to hear the duo bragging about. In fact, Thornton sums up the unassuming Preen attitude best: 'We've never been the next big thing or had much attention - which is just so brilliant.'
great article,lucy! i still adore them,their personalities;seem so grounded and absolutely delightful no matter their evolution and even though they have moved away from my beloved recycling approach.
__________________
it pays my way but corrodes my soul-zowie and brian of boudicca
you really have to see some of their garments up close to appreciate them.
i'm always particularly impressed with their menswear, i wish more of it was viewable online.
they provide innovative cuts and patternmaking for men which is often hard to come by.
Ochi Chernye, could you please provide the source for your images. Thank you.
__________________
All I want to do is fur pants, but I know, like, if I do them I'll get stoned off of Seventh Avenue like some kind of wanton heretic or something. So there won't be any fur pants coming down my runway - Isaaz Mizrahi my blog - random musings of a fashion fiend
Linear Mode
