recession spending
the collections that will count come spring
Making clothes has always been one part fortune-telling—what will women want to wear in six months' time? With the economy in shambles, designers' prognostications are more divergent then ever. Our top ten shows run the gamut from elegant pragmatism to giddy opulence. In other words, there was something for all tastes and styles.
1. ann demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester left her comfort zone to create what rates among her strongest collections to date, one that had bold shots of color, glittery crystal embroideries, and bunched and wrapped toga dresses, as well as cool, drapey jackets and waistcoats for her rock 'n' roll fans.
2. balenciaga
Nicolas Ghesquière pushed fashion further into the future with a collection that explored Balenciaga codes via matte and shiny textures. His tissue-fine metallic pleated jackets worn with covetable motocross pants looked like sci-fi armor for a twenty-first-century style-bot.
3. chanel
In uncertain times, a name like Chanel is something you can believe in. Karl Lagerfeld rolled out all of the house signatures and then some, including tweed, done for Spring in a painterly blown-out check. Result: fashion that's 100 percent impervious to a shaky economy.
4. dolce & gabbana
Leave the S&M and bondage references to the amateurs. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, avowed experts in the subject, abandoned their trademark corsetry (OK, well, not completely) to make the season's most convincing argument for languid, louche pajama dressing.
5. dries van noten
Fashion's most artful realist had another hit on his hands with a mostly black and white collection of shifts, suiting pieces, and one fabulous gold Lurex skirt that was less exuberant than his last two efforts, but never, ever boring.
style.com
6. givenchy
Riccardo Tisci knows his fan base. This season, he gave them plenty of the drop-dead sexy fare they've come to love: expertly cut yet utterly feminine suits, bondage detailing, and Spring's must-have nudes in the form of this tunic-skirt combo with peekaboo transparent paneling.
7. lanvin
From beginning to end, love-at-first-sight clothes that truly have it all: gorgeous color, voluptuously sexy volumes, and, best of all, an easy, no-corset-necessary construction that makes them a joy to wear. Bravo, Alber Elbaz.
8. louis vuitton
If Marc Jacobs has it right—and when has he not?—the sagging economy will leave women hungrier than ever for that special piece. Louis Vuitton had them in spades, from très parisienne forties-shoulder jackets and spangly sweaters to feather minis, and don't forget the eye-catching bags and tribal-art jewelry.
9. marc jacobs
He may call Paris home, but the good old U.S. of A. is Marc Jacobs' first love, and his ode to Americana, complete with bustled prairie skirts, glam motorcycle jackets, a nod to his own grunge moment, and much, much more, just might be his most genius collection ever.
10. ralph lauren
Harem pants at Ralph Lauren? Believe it. With North Africa as inspiration, the designer produced a savvy, beautiful collection that delivered the trends—there were also camp shirts and safari jackets—without jeopardizing the polish and pragmatism that are the hallmarks of his all-American style.
I actually think Prada really should have been on the list this time. Maybe instead of Lanvin (really not Alber's best collection for Lanvin) or Givenchy (really not Tisci best collection for Givenchy!).
Also, Dolce & Gabbana, I don't think should have been on the list...Jil Sander should have, though.
But I'm extremely glad to see Ann's collection in the top 10 because it is so deserved...her collection was stunning.
I'm f***ing amazed and surprised they've chosen Ann Demeleu. as a #1 !!!
It's a fantastic surprise ....
and congrats, too, for DVN.
I mean those are not advertisers in Vogue US (nor they are in any other major magazines) ... so to see them in the Top5 is really huge !!!! and means a lot ....
non ?
If this list is made solely to predict what will sell well, I think it might be very accurate. A mix of labels which either always sell well (Dolce&Gabbana, Chanel) or which are trendy right now (Givenchy, Lanvin, Balenciaga) - plus the "odd one" (Ann D. this time) to cover that this is actually only a list of their biggest sponsors. I don't think this list is ever based on any other measurement than what will sell... and it shows.
I just don't see why this list matters. It is so obvious.
Last edited by Whitelinen : 13-10-2008 at 02:59 PM.
Neither Givenchy or Lanvin belong on that list in any way, shape or form. For every good thing about the Givenchy collection, there was a bad thing to cancel it out, and Lanvin wasn't even close to being as good as it usually is.
I'm on the fence about the Dolce and Gabbana choice. On the one hand I liked the spirit of the collection. On the other, it wasn't cohesive at all, so I'm kind of "eh" about it.
Even though MJ and LV both deserve a place on the list for being among the few standout collections this season, I feel like they should've picked one over the other to keep a space open for someone else.
And it figures that the one time I love a Prada collection, Style.com doesn't.
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All I want to do is fur pants, but I know, like, if I do them I'll get stoned off of Seventh Avenue like some kind of wanton heretic or something. So there won't be any fur pants coming down my runway - Isaaz Mizrahi my blog - random musings of a fashion fiend
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