Who is Olivier Rizzo?
When fashion's most influential stylist talks, Milan listens.
Photographs by Willy Vanderperre
Willy Vanderperre Olivier Rizzo has styled for everyone from Louis Vuitton to Jil Sander and Calvin Klein. This model's hair is Rizzo's homage to Robert Smith of The Cure. Yohji Yamamoto coat, $1,525, and pants, $665. At Yohji Yamamoto, 103 Grand Street. Jil Sander peacoat, $1,470. At select Jil Sander stores. Maison Martin Margiela Line 10 t-shirt and vest. Vintage El Charro belt. Comme des Garcons Homme Plus shoes (throughout this slide show). Fashion editor: Olivier Rizzo
Willy Vanderperre Maison Martin Margiela Line 10 gray sweatshirt, $235, black trench coat, $1,200, and gray coat, $1,500. Go to www.maisonmartinmargiela .com. Prada gray-and-black pants, $540. At select Prada stores. Polo by Ralph Lauren cap. Vintage El Charro belt.
Willy Vanderperre An alumnus of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, which has produced stars like Martin Margiela, Rizzo is teaching his old professors where design ends and styling begins. Yohji Yamamoto gray jacket, $1,370, and pants, $665. At Yohji Yamamoto. Vintage Levi's shirt and El Charro belt.
Willy Vanderperre Vintage sweatshirt, stylist's own. Raf Simons coat and jeans. Vintage El Charro belt.
Willy Vanderperre In a case of do what you want and the rest will follow, Rizzo's personal style has become a full-blown fashion statement. Giorgio Armani gray coat, $2,775, black coat (underneath), $2,895, and black pants, $695. At select Giorgio Armani stores. Yohji Yamamoto hat. Vintage Hugo Boss shirt and El Charro belt.
Willy Vanderperre Calvin Klein Collection black overcoat, $1,750. At Calvin Klein, 654 Madison Avenue. Comme des Garcons Homme Plus black jacket, $1,170. At Comme des Garcons, 520 West 22nd Street. Vintage Hugo Boss shirt and El Charro belt. Raf Simons jeans. Fashion assistant: Lola D'Haese. Hair by Paul Hanlon and makeup by Lisa Houghton, both at Julian Watson Agency. Set design by Pierre Glanddier at Spine. Model: Ryan Smith.
Music is inextricably linked with fashion. History shows that rock 'n' roll was born in 1947, at the time of Christian Dior's New Look. Unwanted and banned in the 40's, it was forced to go underground. But the moment rock 'n' roll started to cut its teeth on popular culture was the moment when every James Dean look-alike danced with an adolescent girl dressed head to toe in crinoline skirts and padded bras: the Hollywood High version of the New Look. That look, meanwhile, found a rival in the birth of pret-a-porter by Dior's successor, Yves Saint Laurent. It was the dawn of the 60's, and youth stopped imitating its elders and took on an identity of its own, taking over and changing fashion forever.
Since then, we've seen every rock-'n'-roll look strut down the runway: from the velvet-collared, lean, hungry, desperate Teddy boys; to the back-combed, beehived, turtlenecked mods; to the deconstructed, nihilistic, black-vinyl punks; to the tawdry, Spandex-clad glam rockers; to the torn, wasted, antifashion grunge tribes. Rock 'n' roll has been exploited to death by a zillion couture houses. Perhaps rightly so. The original designers are long dead, and no longer part of our everyday references. Their successors treat fashion in a merely decorative sense without any subtext. This doesn't make for news. In fact, the ugliest and most unfashionable ideas are always the most irresistible to the creative elite. They have no desire to be inspired by established thoughts and received opinion. What they want is simply to demonstrate their sexual prowess.
A rock star once meant a rebel outlaw -- someone who represented the look of the music. The rules of cool. To dress up, to mess up! To be young, sexy assassins. To sing: ''I am an anti-Christ/I am an anarchist/Your future dream is a shopping scheme.'' But the fashion industry has bought and sold this look too many times. Having poured so much water on its wine, it has finally rendered it innocuous by putting an expensive price tag on it and plastering it with logos. Having been messed, abused, raped and finally left for dead, rock 'n' roll's look has run out of (gasp!) edge. It is now nothing more than a reflection of pop culture's boredom with itself. How can we go on redressing the same corpse?
Easy! Everyone today is their own curator who can pick and mix the icons they worship. Sid Vicious, David Bowie, Marc Bolan. It's all part of a culture we can relate to and in effect, now own. In this new world, shopping and entertainment merge. And the satisfaction we get from dressing like a rock-'n'-roll rebel will last for as long as it is still fashionable. For everyone knows that, once a look wanes, the passion it once stirred seems inexplicable. To understand this is to understand fashion and all those who create and consume it.
How strange it must be for Mick Jagger to sit at Hedi Slimane's show for Dior Homme and watch his naive look-alikes march down the catwalk as if they'd been born onstage in what look like his old clothes -- what he used to wear back in the day, but now produced with the Dior label and matching price tag. Stranger still to see Riley Keough, with the same face as her grandfather Elvis, plastered across magazines and billboards, modeling for Dior. We've come a long way since the 50's, when teenagers and rock 'n' roll co-opted Dior. Christian Dior, in fact, was born exactly 100 years ago.
Jean-Baptiste Mondino Plastered in logos, can you still be an outlaw? Fashion editor: Bill Mullen
Jean-Baptiste Mondino Dior Homme purple sequined suit, $5,072, silk scarf and boots. At Dior Homme NYC, 17 East 57th Street. Gregg Wolf sterling-silver skull rings, chain bracelets and sterling-silver and-Leather belt.
Jean-Baptiste Mondino Thom Browne New york red, white and blue plaid wool jacket, $3,050, pants, $870, red-and-white gingham cotton shirt, $370, and tie. at Bergdorf Goodman. Burberry scarf. Gregg Wolf lapel pin, rings and cuff links. Dior Homme boots. The Sock Man socks.
Jean-Baptiste Mondino Dior Homme Shetland wool sweater, $445, and black cotton-and-gabardine jeans, $575. At Dior Homme. Vintage Converse sneakers.
Jean-Baptiste Mondino Gucci black cotton jacket, $4,085, cotton-and-silk vest, $945, and mohair-and-satin pants, $690. At Gucci stores. Gregg Wolf chain belt and rings.
Jean-Baptiste Mondino Roberto Cavalli fur coat, $13,430. At Roberto Cavalli stores. Lost Art leather pants, $3,500, and leather and Snakeskin guitar strap, $1,200. Go to www.lostartnyc.com. Gregg Wolf jewelry and belt.
Jean-Baptiste Mondino Dolce & Gabbana white velvet tuxedo jacket, $1,995, and blue jeans, $1,050. At Dolce & Gabbana stores. Gregg Wolf necklace, cuff bracelet and belt. Vintage Converse sneakers. Fashion assistants: Andreas Kokkino and Shandi Alexander. Hair by Gavin for Cutler NY/Redken. Makeup by Rose-Marie Swift at Beautytruth.net. Prop styling by Megan Caponetto. Tailoring by Todd Thomas. Casting by Gayle Dizon Inc. Casting assistant: Lisa Silver. Models: Patrick Delaney, Jamie Del Moon, Kirill, Boris Kolesnikov, David Lindwall and Andreu Mendez.
Epic Proportions
Sweeping or slender, this season's cut is going to extremes.
Photographs by David Slijper
David Slijper Lean
Giorgio Armani black cashmere turtleneck sweater, $3,395, black wool coat, $3,325, and gray wool checked trousers, $695. At Giorgio Armani stores. Fashion editor: Robert Rabensteiner
David Slijper Fluid
Raf Simons cotton shirt, about $389, oversize wool pants, about $630, wide belt and tie. At Seven New York, 110 Mercer Street. Louis Vuitton shoes.
David Slijper Sleek
Prada camel-colored wool jacket, $2,710, and dark green wool pants, $525. At select Prada stores. Louis Vuitton shoes.
David Slijper Balanced
Jil Sander black double-breasted wool coat, $2,360, white turtleneck, $298, and wool striped pants, $800. At Jil Sander, 11 East 57th Street. Louis Vuitton shoes.
David Slijper Clipped
Dolce & Gabbana dark purple paisley-print cotton blazer with black satin trim lapel, $1,595, and black velvet tuxedo pants with attached satin cummerbund, $895. At Dolce & Gabbana stores. Louis Vuitton shoes.
David Slijper Close
Yves Saint Laurent blue flannel patch-pocket Grenelle suit, $1,795, vest, $440, white poplin shirt, $360, and pocket square, $100. At Yves Saint Laurent stores. Fashion assistant: Nicolas Klam. Hair by Dennis Devoy for Management Artists NY. Grooming by Misuzu Miyake. Casting by Gayle Dizon Inc. Models: Boris Kolesnikov, Ryan Schira, Arthur Kulkov and Patrick Riley.
Poetic Poland
The new Bohemia (and its signature clothes) stretches all the way to Krakow.
Photographs by Mark Segal
Mark Segal
Rumpled romance: Krakow's gritty realism is the perfect backdrop for this fall's poetic looks, like this oversize wool sweater, above left, by Hermes, $3,250. at Hermes stores. Acne Jeans shirt and pants. Go to www.acnejeans.com. Dolce & Gabbana cap. Above right, from left: Dolce & Gabbana tan wool sweater, $775, and tweed wool vest, $950. At Dolce & Gabbana stores. John Varvatos brown fine-tweed pants, sold as part of a suit for $1,595. At John Varvatos stores. Yohji Yamamoto Men's cap. Miu Miu tweed coat, $1,055. At select Miu Miu stores. Ermenegildo Zegna purple-and-gray cashmere sweater, $610. At Ermenegildo Zegna stores. John Varvatos brown wool pants, $398. Fashion editor: Mattias Karlsson.
Mark Segal
Above left, beneath the layers: Ralph Lauren black label velvet overcoat, $1,295. At select Ralph Lauren stores. DKNY green cotton mock-turtleneck sweater with nylon overlay, $225. At select DKNY stores. Ralph Lauren Purple Label gray wool pants, $425. At select Ralph Lauren stores. Above right, historical references: John Varvatos fine-tweed notched-lapel jacket, sold as part of a suit for $1,595, and wool and cashmere vest, $345. Acne Jeans shirt. Y's Yohji Yamamoto cotton pants, $305. At Yohji Yamamoto, 103 Grand Street. Miu Miu belt.
Mark Segal
Above left, our man in the field: Etro wool cargo coat, $1,600. At Etro, 720 Madison Avenue. Prada wool crewneck sweater, $425. At select Prada stores. Miu Miu suede pants, $940. Above right, built for tweed: Yohji Yamamoto brown tweed coat, $1,200. Acne Jeans shirt and pants. Dolce & Gabbana cap. Fashion assistant: Milosz Grabski. Grooming by Sinden at Streeters, using Guinot Tres Homme. Models: Arek, Malgosia Bela, Hubert and Lukasz.
Mad Togs and Englishmen
A new take on flannel, plaid and tweed for this side of the pond.
Photographs by Gareth McConnell
Gareth McConnell Earl Gray
Missoni cashmere cardigan, price on request. At Missoni, 1009 Madison Avenue. Burberry Prorsum wool pants, $495. At Burberry, 9 East 57th Street. Jewelry, model's own. Fashion editor: Allan Kennedy
Gareth McConnell From left: Paul Smith P.S. wool sweater, about $275. At Paul Smith, 108 Fifth Avenue. Issey Miyake by Naoki Takizawa cotton corduroy pants, $525. At Tribeca Issey Miyake, 119 Hudson Street. Miu Miu shoes. Pringle of Scotland sweater, $395. At Saks Fifth Avenue. Cloak cotton pique shirt, $340. At Barneys New York. Etro wool pants, $450. At Etro, 720 Madison Avenue. Paul Smith socks. Etro shoes. All jewelry, models' own.
Gareth McConnell It's a plaid world
Yves Saint Laurent mohair coat, $1,571. At Yves Saint Laurent stores. Pringle of Scotland turtleneck, $180. To order at (800)544-8268. Giorgio Armani vest, $650. At Giorgio Armani stores. Burberry London wool pants, $295. At select Burberry stores. Paul Smith boots.
Gareth McConnell Hickey wool jacket, $795. At Bergdorf Goodman and www.hickeyfreeman.com. Perry Ellis wool Lycra plaid pants, $295. Go to www.perryellis.com. Cloak merino cardigan, $420. At Barneys New York. Etro shirt, tie and shoes. Paul Smith socks. Jewelry, model's own.
Gareth McConnell The need for tweed
Duckie Brown wool-and-silk houndstooth jacket, about $1,200. At Barneys New York. Burberry Prorsum silk twill shirt, $325, and merino knit cardigan, $530. At select Burberry stores. Miu Miu tweed pants, $395. At Miu Miu stores. Hickey tie. Paul Smith boots.
Gareth McConnell Burberry Prorsum silk twill shirt, $495, and tie. At select Burberry stores. Perry Ellis suede vest, $395. Go to www.perryellis.com. Miu Miu wool jacket, $945. At Miu Miu stores. Hair by Duffy at www.premier-agency.com. Models: Cosmo Barker, Danny Beauchamp, Adam Holden, Mannah and Mickey Waldorf.
From Russia With Luxe
A level of luxury not known since the czars. Lenin rest in peace.
Photographs by Eric Maillet
Eric Maillet
Above right: How's the leather in Moscow? Cool, as is this Fendi Fortuni leather bag, perched in front of St. Nicolas church. Price on request. At Fendi stores. Above left: Louis Vuitton astrakhan coat, $14,500. Go to www.vuitton.com. Costume National shirt, about $420. At select Costume National stores. Fashion editor: Serge Girardi.
Eric Maillet
Carpet Bagging: Blow into the Rossija Hotel in Zariadje with these Louis Vuitton Cabas Steamer bags, $9,800 each. Go to www.vuitton.com. Above right: Valentino tuxedo, $1,450, and scarf, $180. Tuxedo At Saks Fifth avenue. Scarf to order at Valentino stores. Ike Behar cotton pique custom tuxedo shirt, $275. Call (800) 637-3013.
Eric Maillet
Dome Boy: The wildly colorful onions of St. Basil's cathedral in red square inspire everything from clothes to accessories. Above right: Burberry Prorsum shearling satchel, $1,875. At select Burberry stores. Above left: Prada wool hat, $895, mohair sweater, $495, and leather bag, $1,390. At select Prada stores. Hair by Dmitri Gollurev and makeup by Alexei Molchanov, both at Reformo Prosum. Production by Roxana Chatunovskaya. Models: Valentin Sauchenko, Python and Lomovtchev Nikolay.
ok so whats in for fall 05...ive been looking but i cant really find the mens fashions for fall and winter 05....casually what would a guy wear ...if theres a thread on this sorry...really looked just redirect me to it please
my boyfriend and i were having a discussion on this and now i want to know whats in so it would really help
Olivier Rizzo has styled for everyone from Louis Vuitton to Jil Sander and Calvin Klein. This model's hair is Rizzo's homage to Robert Smith of The Cure. Yohji Yamamoto coat, $1,525, and pants, $665. At Yohji Yamamoto, 103 Grand Street. Jil Sander peacoat, $1,470. At select Jil Sander stores. Maison Martin Margiela Line 10 t-shirt and vest. Vintage El Charro belt. Comme des Garcons Homme Plus shoes (throughout this slide show). Fashion editor: Olivier Rizzo
so it would really help
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