Designer Lines and their Manufacturing & Production Sources and/or their Licensee's

[sTcA]

I would like to build a licensing map, i.e. who manufactures for which brand. Note that quite many manufacturing companies have been bought or belong to their licensing brand.

The list might start with those I’ve found so far:

• IT Holding (Italy) for Ferré, CNC, Malò
• Confezioni Moda Italia (Italy) owned by Calvin Klein
• Sinv (Italy) for Moschino Jeans
• STAFF INTERNATIONAL SpA (Italy) for DSquared, Margiela, Westwood

Do you have others to add?

[BetteT]

Thank you for starting this thread, sTcA! Hopefully other members have information they can add, too.

[kathleen fasanel]

Originally Posted by sTcA

I would like to build a licensing map, i.e. who manufactures for which brand.

I'm confused. The title to your entry was "List of Designer Lines and their Manufacturing & Production Sources" but now you're talking about licensing. In the apparel industry, licensing means you're buying the rights to use the designer's name for a product you already manufacture (for example, sunglasses) At best, the designer stipulates the quality levels, criteria or colors that fit with their image. The licensee never delivers the product TO the designer but sells it on their own, again according to venues that were established in the licensing agreement.

Licensing is distinctly different from contracting iow, "manufacturing and production sources". The latter is done strictly to order. The designer or staff does everything or at the very least, they have the contractor do the work under their auspices. Likewise, the goods are delivered TO the designer or an agent (distribution center) and shipped to customers who placed orders.

Licensing is a public affair, often with much fan-fare. Contracts are understandably coveted and it's easy to discern who's garnered one. Not so with contractors (production and manufacturing) making the goods (usually clothes) to order. This is one of a designers most tightly held secrets. They don't want it known who makes their patterns or sews their products or even who sells them their fabric and buttons because it'd be easier to compete with them in the marketplace. If you wanted to compete with RL purple label, who better than to hire their pattern maker and contract house? See what I mean? You won't find that information broadcast.

I'm a service provider in the garment industry. We -for the most part- are not allowed to say who we work for. If we do say, you can bet money they are either no longer a client or we were doing something along the lines of commodities (tees etc) nothing specialized. My clients are very paranoid. Even amongst ourselves (among colleagues) we don't mention who we work for. It's considered very bad form to even ask. Rude in fact. Before anyone comes over (colleague or new client) we put everything away.

I wish you well with your thread but I don't think you'll uncover many production sources. I could tell you about some designers but then I'd have to kill you.

[BetteT]

Thank you for sharing this very important information, kathleen. We learn so much about the fashion biz from members like you.

That name for the thread is my fault ... because I was unaware of the technicalities of "licensing" and how it differed from production/manufacturing. I directed sTcA not to use the "licensing" term in the thread, because I thought it was a bit misleading. I see now, the he very well may be talking about licensing and not straight up production.

I'm going to edit the name of the thread to include licensing ... since they are related and it's good to discuss the difference.


So, sTcA, it would be great if you would be able to clarify this issue. These sources you posted ... do you know which they are ... licensee's or regular production?

[kathleen fasanel]

Ha ha!
WWD says this morning that Cavalli has signed a five year licensing contract with Gibo. This reminds me that Gibo is unusual for licensees. Gibo DOES produce the designers product (not without some oversight tho) as a traditional producer/manufacturer does BUT, they also do distribution, the traditional role of licensing. So, Gibo is kind of an odd hybrid that blurs the traditional boundaries of licensing.

Just thought you'd like to know .

[sTcA]

I'm looking after licensing agreements. Yes Kathleen, the Gibo case is not that unusual. But again I'm trying to draw a map of licensing (in fact some brands, licensor, are most of the times divided on several licensing agreements, ie men, women, accessories....... and often the same licensee hold several brands/licenses). The sources I've posted are licensees. Thanks,

[educo]

I had to sign a confidentiality agreement at the place I'm working at!

[sTcA]

I'm not looking for top secret information, public ones are enough.

I don't think Mrs. Suzi Menkes had any problem for her article in which she writes about Warnaco, GFT and Marzotto:
http://www.iht.com/articles/2000/07/...2.t.php?page=1

[D'Felipe]

Gooood Thread!