When designing for brand as high profile as Gucci you’re always going to be opening yourself up to a high level of scrutiny, not to mention when you’re following in the footsteps of a visionary like Tom Ford.
With the launch of Gucci Premiere, however, Gucci creative director Frida Giannini is opening herself and the iconic label up to more scrutiny then ever before.
While not an official couture house – they have not been certified by the regulating board as such – the Italian brand is using the word "couture" to describe the collection in the way Versace does for their Atelier Versace line.
Everything is done by hand, and the $16,000 and up price tags of a Premiere gown put Gucci in a new category.
So far, the reaction to the Premiere collection has been overwhelmingly positive. Salma Hayek debuted one of the collection’s creations at the Cannes Film Festival, and over the ensuing festival’s two weeks, a parade of Hollywood’s finest were photographed in the couture looks.
Surprisingly, the Premiere gowns were rather understated, delicate, refined, and not overtly or aggressively sexy.
This trend carried over to Giannini’s Resort 2011 collection for Gucci, where the designer went for a subdued glamorous look.
The Italian designer’s skin tight pants and fitted blazers and jackets are still prominent in the collection, but the color palette is heavy on beige, white, black, and overall washed-out tones and prints.
Further, a number of easy-to-wear dresses with classic Gucci hardware and chain prints and beige tiger prints were a lot more versatile and age appropriate for a wider gap than previous collections. Giannini is growing as a designer while still staying true to her aesthetic, and it’s a testament to her talent that she can design simpler looks without veering into forgettable or boring territory.