Runway News

Milan Menswear Spring 2011: Runway Overview

I’ve been seeing a slew of fitted menswear pieces these past few days that I wouldn’t mind having in my own closet.

I don’t know what that says about their wearability for men, but judging by the reaction from influential buyers from high-end department stores like Barneys New York, designers showed what they consider to be very wearable collections.

There was a lot of experimenting “with color, fabric and form,” as noted by Richard Johnson, Menswear Buying Manager for Harvey Nichols.

Nick Wooster, Men’s Fashion Director of Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, remarked “if there is one new item I think a guy should add to his wardrobe, it would be a double-breasted jacket. It looks really fresh when it’s trimmer, shorter and rumpled up.”

This goes back to the fitted looks shown by, among others Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo and Moschino Uomo, which have caught my attention.

Major buyers are betting on Bottega Veneta, Burberry Prorsum, Etro, Gucci, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Moncler, as far as where the bulk of their orders will likely go.


 
Despite more risks in color, silhouettes, and tailoring there was a very commercial feel to a number of the collections (think Marc Jacobs and Giorgio Armani), and it seems that many brands are still trying to play it safe, given the economic conditions.

However, amidst the classic looks, there was definitely some noteworthy risk-taking, including a slew of jegging looks – leggings fashioned to looks like jeans – that were shown by a number of brands, including Burberry Prorsum and Versace.

Jeggings haven’t drawn positive reactions from women since they first started popping up about a year ago, and the look makes even less sense for men.

Perhaps jeggings tie into what Jason Broderick, General Merchandise Manager of Harrods, noted about the season’s overall trend of revisiting  “the Seventies with a jive feel.”
 
Tomas Maier’s collection for Bottega Veneta is also worth singling out. Poised to be the stand-out collection of the season, Maier showed an exquisite mix of classic easy-to-wear day and business suits with bolder, riskier choices, including patterned suits, all-white looks, loose-fitting tops worn under suits, and some wonderful outerwear pieces fashioned with bold zippers and pockets.

 

Fashions shown:  Bottega Veneta, Giorgio Armani, Marc Jacobs, Gucci, and jeggings by Versace.

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