While it is never very smart to come into a Maison Martin Margiela presentation with expectations, there are certain things that, with the departure of the label’s namesake designer, we have come to anticipate.
Echoes of seasons past were evident in the collection with nude bodysuits, shielded eyes, and that signature square jacket – although this time it was a more traditional fur and not the human hair that created a roar years ago.
The designer’s obsession with recycling carried on through the work of his successors, but with frills, who-ville hair, and tulips walking down the runway at Dior, the Margiela collection looked somewhat predictable.
The artisanal collection was an ode to leather, skins, and reconstruction. Clutches and handbags were transformed into a jacket, a fur adorned vest came with waist-hugging pelts, and just for good measure, a cowboy showed up to finish the show.
While the beads, leather, and fur may sound cohesive on paper, the collection faltered after the first few pieces, when it went from promising to peculiar. There were certainly standout pieces, and I’m sure the many-shades-of-beige trousers will be sold internationally, but the rest seems destined for the archives.