It’s the quiet ones you have to watch. As Astrid Brucker worked steadily towards her goal of fashion design, she took a few detours into styling and costume design.
Working on movies, TV shows, and commercials, Brucker enhanced her eye for shape and form, and she started her own line in 2008.
Her first collection appeared in WWD, since she was prominently featured in the Supima Premium Fabrics fashion show.
Her clothing can be sharply body-conscious minimalist, or flow over the body in softly draped fabric. She also does a line of must-have accessories and jewelry. Brucker recently sat down to answer a few questions for the Fashion Spot.
The Fashion Spot: I’m really impressed by your styling! You’ve done some great work for Level, Vibe, and Iconography. How did you get started as a stylist?
Astrid Brucker: Thanks! I started out with a BFA in Fashion Design from Parsons. I was working in the fashion industry, but had a great desire to do styling, too. So I assisted other stylists working on commercials and magazine editorials.
tFS: And you ended up dressing the legendary Faye Dunaway. Did you get to meet her? What was that like?
AB: I worked on a movie called Changing Hearts with Faye Dunaway as the costume designer, and she was amazing! She’s so smart and funny, and really cares about the role. We went through all her character changes together and we had a blast! It’s so wonderful working with an icon, someone who respects the costume designer and understands the importance of clothes as they relate to her character arc.
tFS: When did you start designing clothing? What inspired you?
AB: I started designing clothes at school for other people. I started my line when I needed a dress to wear to my movie premiere for Joshua (the 2007 thriller starring Sam Rockwell and Vera Farmiga).
I had been sewing and sketching for a long time, designing everything from wedding gowns and sportswear to textile designs. I’m inspired by New York City, and designing costumes taught me a lot about cultures, time periods, silhouettes, and fit.
tFS: And now you also have shawls, handbags, and jewelry. How much are the accessories influenced by the clothing line?
AB: The accessories are influenced by the style lines in the clothes, such as the triangle bag, which perfectly complements the cowl neck dress with the diamond-shaped insets.
The circle bag is a great shape for all seasons, and works with the whole collection. My circular shawl shape was inspired by my idea of a cover-up for my dresses, not having to wear a cumbersome coat for fall.
Jewelry is a bit more spontaneous, and is constantly evolving, I have rock and roll draped chains and chain suspender necklaces that can be worn multiple ways. For fall and beyond I am making shorter, chunkier necklaces with beads, chains, and leather.
tFS: Any plan for shoes?
AB: I adore shoes, and would definitely love to design them one day.
tFS: You have a reputation for being a "green" designer. Tell us more about that.
AB: I work with bamboo and organic cotton blends. I also have been reworking vintage dresses and my bags are largely out of ultra suede, remnant leather pieces, or even reworked leather garments.
I just recently started making modernist necklaces out of plastic soda can rings.
tFS: What do you have planned for Fashion Week? Will you be showing?
AB: I have a number of showroom appointments but I will not be having a show under the big tent.
tFS: What direction do you see the Spring/Summer 2011 line taking? Do you have any particular inspirations for the coming season?
AB: My inspiration comes from the seaside. There will be more blues and more lightweight, innovative fabrics – like an optic jean effect that looks like a cross between denim and cotton but has much more drape and fluidity. I definitely have a more relaxed, bohemian approach for Spring 2011.