As a small, downtown-based alt-label, Mandy Coon was greeted by a surprisingly hefty audience of viewers this past Thursday at Milk Studios.
Buyers, editors, and the like, crowded into a small
presentation space for a trip under the sea.
Never without hints of the street, Coon examined the magnificence of invertebrates with unorthodox employments of leather, jersey, and silk.
Encompassing the majesty of the jellyfish’s dangerous good looks, there were plenty of cues to their sublimities.
For instance, a dark ensemble offset by tiers of tulle and chiffon looks to lure its viewer with the duality of its beauty and painful sting.
Light-as-air layers of silk moved much like Coon’s very inspiration, fluidly amongst hardened overtures of lambskin stretch-leggings, leather-tube obi belts, and unconventional shapes.
This season’s palette was, as usual, minimal (black, white, cream), but ventured into eventual pops
of red coral and rainbow print.
The hair, created by Pasquale Ferrante, exposed Coon’s most literal inspirational depiction in its braiding and matte finish. Shoes, created by LD Tuttle, contributed the perfect edge to the season’s softer choices.
Coon, although still in her first few seasons of showing, has found something of a signature aesthetic along the way – composite asymmetry. Look to her brilliant black cocktail dress that suddenly appears to have been split in half to become a brightly colored kaleidoscope of draped silk.
Or, look to the black jersey-leather dress that abruptly transfers into a frayed cream silk half-kimono. Her concepts of two-half-outfits-in-one may be a tough sell, but they work visually to compel her wearer into juxtaposed bliss.