Season after season, there’s one designer who continuously blends the line where fashion ends and art begins: Gareth Pugh. For Spring 2011, the amazingly talented British designer showed his collection via an eleven-minute film created by Ruth Hogben.
The film inevitably leads to the question: why are designers expected to stage runway shows at all? This “do or don’t” debate has been brewing for several seasons. In fact, the only designer who has yet to see his collection broadcast to the world mere hours after its runway debut is Tom Ford. Ford opted to stage a hush-hush presentation that allowed for no outside photography. (On a side note, given the show format, no photographers were allowed at the Pugh show either.)
Of course, the allure that runway shows bring to fashion houses will make them unlikely to disappear anytime soon. But, as a designer at the forefront of fashion-as-performance, Pugh was the perfect person to add fire to the debate.
As for the collection, it displayed the futuristic, wearable sculpture, and hard-shell animal-like shapes we expect from Pugh. The familiar architectural aesthetic featured more movement, and a softened, more restrained edge. However, it was difficult to see this at times, given the jerky editing of the film.
Although the collection consisted primarily of light hues, it also included a psychedelic McQueen-esque black and white geometric print, silver and metallic foil-like highlights, and some black pieces. Pugh managed to create a collection that balanced conceptualism with wearability, more so than any of his past collections.