I wonder what Valentino Garavani has to say about the latest Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli designed Valentino collection. Having been quite vocal about his disapproval, I fear that the latest Haute Couture show would do very little to assuage his feelings over the direction of the line.
While some of the brand’s timeless signatures – namely pops of rich red, ruffles, and bow details – were on display, the designers failed to show anything all that different from what they did last season, and that’s not a particularly good thing.
Similar neutral color palettes, details, and silhouettes to seasons past aside, taken individually, there were plenty of beautiful details to be culled from the pleating, embroidery, appliqué work, and tiered fabrics. When combined, however, the couture details often resulted in either matronly looks with not enough visual interest, or the complete opposite with unnecessarily sheer gowns with too many gimmicky frills (butterflies anyone?), aimed at what appears to be a very young demographic.
It’s unfortunate that a house that was long known for its exquisite use of color, is now churning out such drab pieces that might even fail to excite were this a ready-to-wear collection. Hopefully, next season the design duo will opt to take the collection in a new direction, or at least one more in line with the Valentino brand.