Though it’s still a relatively new brand (it was started in 2007), Diesel Black Gold always puts on a star-studded show. This season brought out Vanessa Hudgens, Chace Crawford, Wyclef Jean, Anna Dello Russo (dressed in, appropriately enough, all gold) and Carine Roitfeld’s son, Vladimir Roitfeld. Fall 2011 marks exactly one year since creative director Sophia Kokosalaki took the helm at the brand and she proved once again that she is the perfect Diesel fit. The designer’s clean, but edgy style is exactly what the brand, still best known for denim, needs to keep itself relevant in today’s cluttered market.
While Kokosalaki has shown more denim-heavy collections in the past, this season was all about leather and suede. The rugged warehouse-like space the collection was shown in, Pier 94, was an ideal backdrop for the collection that mixed 70s with grunge and hints of romanticism. Black was a dominant color, which was a good thing because if you’re looking to hide any excess bulge, it won’t be easy with this collection given the fitted nature of nearly every look.
Among the body gracing outfits however were plenty of sumptuous leather jackets, soft leather trousers, suede vests, fur-lined outerwear, and short, sharply cut jackets giving the collection a fiercely sexy swagger that was amped up by messy swept-to-the-side hair, severe black smoky eye makeup, nude lips, and somewhat menacing runway music.
Layering was a big part of the day's looks with tops covered by vest, covered themselves by jackets. As for the 70s inspiration, it was rampant: bell-bottom pants, fringe details, shaggy fur coats and jackets, corset tops, suede dresses, and crochet knits were just some of the elements that made their way down the runway. While the question of whether or not bell-bottoms will truly make a mainstream comeback remains to be seen, there will no doubt be a big audience for the designer’s draped skirts, fitted pants and jackets, and easy button-downs.
Photos by Vincenzo Grillo, IMAXtree