Alberta Ferretti shines when she sticks to simple looks with clean draping subtly accented with beading, pleating, and similarly elegant embellishments and fabric techniques executed in a restrained manner. This season, while we did get some of that, notably with a few of the gowns, Ferretti seemed to be going for an edgy 21st century-meets-60s look that often fell flat, particularly when it came to her cocktail dresses.
Perhaps inspired by more tech-savvy designers like Christopher Kane (the two ironically shared an affinity for the swivel this season), Ferretti showed clashing prints that at times seems digital age-inspired when they made use of shine and sequins, which along with some of the often unflattering dusty-toned mod silhouettes and head-to-toe boldly colored looks (think fuchsia, orange, and metallic silver), made for a number of unflattering looks. The all-over color palette didn't help matters.
It’s too bad that Ferretti didn’t opt for less over-the-knee boot action – the Balmain-esque shoe style was paired with nearly every day and cocktail look – and focus instead on the magic that her gowns brought to the show.
Photos: Vincenzo Grillo, IMAXtree.