When the the John Galliano label announced earlier this week that the usually large show would be scaled back to a smaller presentation, most expected a standing tableaux vivant, the most common for designer presentations. Instead, when the hoards of invitees entered a building on the Avenue Foch, a staged runway presentation met them. If there was any doubt at this point of whose collection it was, the set design and collection would have swept it aside.
The events surrounding Galliano’s dismissal from Dior are hardly insignificant and while his actions alone were despicable and under no circumstances to be overlooked, the countless hours of hard work that goes into a collection can also not be overlooked. One person cannot create a collection of this magnitude and it would be incredibly disrespectful to disregard the team behind the designer. Additionally, the legal ramifications of dramatically shuttering the label would be too great as there are licenses and investors that will have to assess the financial repercussions.
In addidtion to the drama surrounding the designer, there was plenty of drama on the catwalk with Galliano's signature aesthetic shown distilled in this exemplary showing. Elegant Forties silhouettes paired with classically tailored textiles were shown alongside bespoke hats by milliner and longtime Galliano collaborator, Stephen Jones. A quintessentially Galliano presentation, silky kimono dresses, fur collared cocoon jackets, and covetable eveningwear rounded out the show. And if this is to be the last we see from the John Galliano label for a while, this is certainly the way you would want it to go out.
Photos: Vincenzo Grillo, IMAXtree