In spite of the fact that it is one of the most highly anticipated shows of the season, and even with the occasional yeti jumpsuit, Chanel doesn’t surprise us very often. This season’s masterful post-apocalyptic presentation was contrary to almost everything we’ve seen this season. For one, most of the models were wearing flats, and more importantly, they all carried a laissez-faire attitude uncommon for the strict Chanel brand (also a great departure from the feminine frocks and silk pumps shown in couture).
The house’s legendary tweeds were present but on a cooler girl. The set was staged like a post-volcanic castle with twin drawbridges lowering to reveal the models and the catwalk a raised boardwalk with volcanic rock seemingly steaming with dry ice. Intricate set aside, this collection is the most wearable and layerable showing we’ve seen from the brand in a long time.
There was an injection of that effortless downtown cool we see in New York into the French girl’s wardrobe. With Isabel Marant, unfortunately, showing less than her best this season, it looks like French girls will be clamoring for Chanel’s more relaxed daywear, especially the jackets and capes. Girly girls mustn’t worry though, the simple black pumps paired with a few of the looks were chic and wearable with just a two inch rise – perhaps solving the endless ugly kitten heel debate. The play on texture that is typical for Chanel, but we have seen on innumerable catwalks this season, was evident with hints of lurex, feathers, and lace layered onto the looks. With the exception of a few ill-fitting garments like the jumpsuits and one pair of unfortunately cut trousers, the collection was well rounded and succinct.
Photos: Vincenzo Grillo, IMAXtree