Roberto Cavalli is experiencing a renaissance. In the past few seasons, the designer has revitalized his brand, straying from the clichéd and predictable niche for which he carved himself. For years, a Roberto Cavalli show was about which animal print would get the most runway time and how low cut and adorned a garment could become. Now don’t go expecting minimalist, color blocked daywear from the designer, as this collection has more sequins and leopard print that we saw in the whole week in New York, but there was a youthful, more decisive inspiration at play for spring. Deconstructed, the collection featured a number of standout pieces that are sure to get more editorial play than his past collections.
One of this season’s biggest trends, the drop waist skirt, started off the show in a set of sequined looks that featured knife pleats revealing a printed chiffon underneath. It was this juxtaposition of soft and hard that played throughout the collection, keeping it from becoming gaudy and maintaining wearablility. Cavalli isn’t known for his daywear, but the slim cut jackets and short dresses are the closest thing we’ve seen to everyday looks from the designer in a long time. There were some weak moments, as the bright prints went from subtly hidden to splashed all over a pant suit, but it was reigned in with a series of muted and pastel tones that showed great growth for the designer who just celebrated 40 years in the industry.