News & Runway

Celine Spring 2012 Runway Review

Phoebe Philo has, for the most part, stuck with crisp minimalism and neutral hues since taking over the creative reigns at Celine — and why not? It seems to consistently work and scarce is the editor who doesn't own at least a handful of Philo-designed Celine pieces and accessories. This season, Philo gave the aesthetic a Japanese twist with crisp tucks and folds, origami cuts, and kimono-like shapes. The Asian-minimalist inspiration came through strongest with chunky heeled and ankle belted platform shoes and with sculpted and slightly voluminous outerwear, which played with proportion given that each was cinched with an oversized belt; this play on proportion also tied into the belt ankle cuffs on the chunky shoes, with the extra wide, almost baggy, trousers, and with stiff, wide sleeve tops.

While a number of the silhouettes in the collection will be hard to wear for the average woman, it’s refreshing to see Philo explore new shapes while staying true to the overarching style that has become her signature for the brand.