When Kate Middleton wore a striking blue Issa dress to announce her engagement, Daniella Issa Helayel's brand was skyrocketed onto the international stage. While amazing for things like brand recognition and sales, a leap like this often forces growth at a rapid speed. Because of this, it seems that Helayel, in efforts to continue to grow her brand, is being forced to serve two masters. The public expects her to show a collection of duchess-worthy looks but her own inspiration and direction seemed to work against her this season. The conflict arising from the pull and tug game that comes with massive public attention has finally made its way onto the runway.
Inspired by a trans-Siberian journey, it was almost as if Helayel took design elements from every stop from Moscow to Beijing, put them in a blender, and came out with a series of mix and match looks. The head-to-toe print trend led the show, though Helayel's a bit late on this one, but it broke down from there. Deco references came towards the end but when seen alongside fur cap-sleeves, the intention was lost. Taken apart, there were some very wearable, and saleable, looks that buyers will love; but as a collection, it could have used a more refined editing eye.