With his artful nature and penchant for print, it was no shock to see that Erdem was showing in Bermondsey’s White Cube Gallery. In spite of its sparce décor, the space was well suited to play host to the designer’s ode to the great 50s eccentric collectors such as Peggy Guggenheim. With his client list filled with first ladies and princesses alike, it came as no surprise to see that Erdem was playing it safe with demure, ladylike shapes and his trademark busy prints. In a palette of purple, navy, acid green, and aqua, the collection’s fall intentions were intruiging, but erring on the safe side.
Erdem has succeeded in bringing back ‘pretty’ in the past few seasons, but how many lace overlaid floral dresses does one woman need? That said, he stepped out of the box with his use of new textures, like the surprising addition of black rubber, but set them in the same prim and proper fashion as his silks and tweeds. Young brands with a loyal following often find it hard to keep their point of view fresh, but it’s clear that Erdem isn’t resting on his laurels, just ensuring his bases are covered.