Holly Fulton's show notes promised a naughty Lady Chatterley, and while I'm not sure she delivered that, she certainly delivered. Sophisticated silhouettes, bar a few carwash hems, were paired with her signature deco prints and there was a refined quality to her normal outlandish wares. Succeeding with both the collection proper and the accessories shown alongside, Fulton restricted her usually bright and bold palette to two main colors and, for the first time, black. Known for her dramatic graphics, Fulton spoke to the LFW Daily before her show and mentioned that she thinks her reputation as a print master is funny, as she never studied textiles.
Where Fulton’s collection failed wasn’t in execution or even concept, but in growth. As a young designer in London, especially one who specializes in prints, rapid growth is key in ensuring lasting success. Fulton’s deco prints may be interesting, but are they enough to carve out a signature market? After her debut with Fashion East and the NEWGEN collections that followed, the industry expected great things from the young designer. This season wasn’t her breakout, but it may have been a step forward. Let's hope she rides this momentum and carves out her niche next season.