Runway News

London Fashion Week Fall 2012 Hits and Misses (Forum Buzz)

It often seems like London Fashion Week gets the short end of the stick schedule-wise, squeezed as it is between the mammoth, eight-day-long marathon that is New York Fashion Week, and the highly anticipated shows in Milan. But, as we’ve seen in the last few days, there was a lot to see, admire, and covet in London this season. There were also (as there are in every Fashion Week) a few collections that failed to live up to expectations. Here, forum members weigh in on some of London’s hits and misses.

London Fashion Week fall 2012 Hits - Giles, Mary Katrantzou, Belstaff
The Hits: Giles, Mary Katrantzou, Belstaff

THE HITS:

Giles

“This is so beautiful. Probably my favorite collection of the entire season (so far). The proportions on [some of the dresses] are so wrong yet so so beautiful.” [mistress_f]

“I love this collection. I love that Giles finds beauty in things that are not considered beautiful. The layers of the burnt chiffon are so beautiful.” [masquerade]

“I love almost everything about this. The tailoring on the suits looks fantastic and I love that the gowns and dresses are beautiful while still having some edge to them (and without going the McQueen look-alike route). The burnt out features are perfect.” [franki]

 

Mary Katrantzou

“The colors. The prints. The innovation. I'm in LOVE.” [LabelWhore4]

“I think I'm having a genuine fashion moment! Nothing but pure love for this, from the construction to the prints to the shapes.” [Vitamine W]

“She's cool, I really love her work. She's one of the only designers who don’t make me feel like I'm looking like at dresses, but at artpieces displayed on people.” [Thefrenchy]

Read our review and see images from the Mary Katrantzou collection.

 

Belstaff

“For such a small collection it packs quite the punch. I've never paid attention to Belstaff before, but if they can turn out more collections like this, I think a lot more [people] will take notice!” [haydn]

“This is from Belstaff? I love it! Very pleasantly surprised. This is what Burberry SHOULD be; dark and sophisticated. This shows that bulky jackets and coats can still be impeccably tailored and flattering.” [franki]

“New owners, new creative director (Martin Cooper [who previously was at Burberry]), new flagship stores opening in NYC and London this fall, and there was an article in WWD a few months ago that mentioned they've hired Laird + Partners for the upcoming F/W campaign. Quite exciting. I've been waiting for this relaunch forever and so far it does not disappoint.” [JSYK]

 

London Fashion Week fall 2012 Misses - Roksanda Ilincic, Meadham Kirchhoff, Acne
The Misses: Roksanda Ilincic, Meadham Kirchhoff, Acne

THE MISSES:

Roksanda Ilincic

“After seeing her pre-fall collection, this is such a let-down. Almost cringe-worthy.” [Scott]

“I can't help feeling a little bit disappointed. I'm not digging this collection. It's quite 'meh' compared to the pre-fall.” [Hazel]

“Those big ugly duffle bags seem like a bad joke.” [lucy92]

 

Meadham Kirchhoff

“I don’t know anymore. For a few seasons Meadham Kirchhoff was one of my favorite shows. I struggled a bit with last season. And now I wonder if they might just have pushed the envelope too far into monster raving lunacy.” [Tentacl Ventricl]

“I've always loved their work… it was intelligent, it was esoteric, it was thoughtful… this to me looks ridiculous. It's like they're trying to appease a certain overrated trend started by overrated pop stars.” [Scott]

“Clothes for attention whores. I own a bunch of pieces from their Topshop collaborations. I don’t quite understand why this collection (and their last) was so garish. Their Topshop items were so good. What gives?” [lucy92]

Read our review and see images from the Meadham Kirchoff collection.

 

Acne

“Not taken by this whatsoever. Please go back to the old direction Jonny!” [Scott]

“First impression: messy. Was the idea just to slap on a belt in order to save an unflattering silhouette? Dislike.” [amour_amour363]

“The silhouette is as unflattering as it gets, the girls look so stiff and uncomfortable. But I do like the fabrics, I just don't get his obsession with weird shapes.” [Marc10]

All Images: IMAXtree

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