Former creative director Christophe Decarnin completely transformed Balmain and influenced countless other designers, spawning innumerable trends in the process from power shoulders to heavy embroidery to rock-n-roll dress. Since taking over the position from his former boss, Olivier Rousteing seems to have been able to, in a very short amount of time, not only keep that influential DNA, but move the house forward.
The skintight silhouettes, power shoulders, and the short hem signatures are still there, but they were done with more control when it came to embellishments. Though there was a notable embroidered jacket and lots of pearls and sequin detailing, quilting (done in velvet!) stood out as the season’s covetable garment detailing. Also worth singling out was the recurring mixed texture effect on a variety of pieces, which created an almost baroque tapestry-like effect. Other luxe touches like silk trousers, needlepoint flowers, and gold (including belts) gave the collection a welcome opulence that felt wearable for a wider demographic than one usually associates with the brand (price considerations notwithstanding).