The mass of followers that comes with an Ann Demeulemeester show is expected. A legion of models draped in black is expected. Just about everything notable in a Demeulemeester collection is predictable, yet season after season, her following only grows. There’s something satisfying and comforting in the fact that the designer has found her niche and plans to stay in it, but it doesn’t make for a very interesting review. The only thing that came as a bit of a surprise this season was the addition of blue to her normal monochromatic palette.
Some will surely call it the Lisbeth Salander-effect, but the influence was most likely the other way around. Just because a notable character emerged with Demeulemeester-esque style, and influenced a number of other designers, doesn’t mean the woman herself paid any attention. In fact, there was something almost ladylike in the architecture of the looks, and a much softer Demeulemeester woman emerged, but overall it was a strong showing by a strong designer who knows what she likes.