Haider Ackermann is so beloved in the industry at the moment that he’s thought to be a viable replacement for Galliano at Dior, Martin Margiela at Maison Martin Margiela, and Karl Lagerfeld has even said that the Colombian designer would be an ideal successor for him at Chanel. Reassuringly, Ackermann’s Fall 2012 collection lived up to the adulation, and more. Done in a beautiful Fall palette of matte and shiny blue, black, bronze, aubergine, amber, gray, and orange, it was one of the designer’s most wearable collections without sacrificing an inch of his enviable, complex cerebral aesthetic.
While it’s easy to imagine each look draped on Ackermann muse Tilda Swinton’s body, this collection had incredibly wide-ranging appeal. Brimming with stunning waist (folded peplums!) and shoulder sculpted details, the collection mixed structured and draped elements in nearly every look for an impeccable hard/soft balance (underlined by the mix of fabrics). More impressively still, the collection was clean and streamlined despite the layering seen in many of the looks.