In spite of Ennio Capasa's brief obsession with pink last season, he has returned to his comfort zone with Costume National's latest dark and moody showing. The former protégé of Yohji Yamamoto made his old boss proud as the collection was as rich in bold cuts as it was interesting textures. Layering and asymmetry played stars with architectural cuts in a key supporting role.
Where Capasa succeeded was in making this all seem wearable, in spite of its dramatic shapes and cuts. There were pieces that will, no doubt, be left on the sample room floor when it comes to buying season, but such looks — like the sheer long-sleeved shirts with a just a small stripe protecting the models’ modesty — worked to translate his message and project it onto the runway. He called the collection "New Wave-No Wave-Dark Wave" and sought to highlight the modern woman's penchant for mixing femininity with androgyny via shape and styling. This power-woman inspiration has been a strong trend this season and this collection was the perfect mix of soft and hard to suit her every need.