Runway News

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2013 Hits and Misses: Part 2 (Forum Buzz)

For the most part, the Paris collections this season were beautiful, innovative, exciting, and almost like a welcome shot of adrenaline after the exhaustion and jaded feeling induced by the long stretch of three prior fashion weeks. In the forums, some hotly anticipated collections like Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent Paris debut, Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Givenchy, and more received reviews too mixed to qualify them definitively as hits or misses. The collections listed below though, were either universally loved or found lacking.

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2013 Hits - AF Vandevorst, Haider Ackermann, Comme des Garcons
The Hits: A.F. Vandevorst, Haider Ackermann, Comme des Garcons

THE HITS:

A.F. Vandevorst

“I feel like my heart seriously raced a little faster. The 'luxurious' aesthetic is something I'm usually immune to but the theme here is so rich and has so many layers (conceptual and physical) and textures… I love how they never get stuck, they don't just do blackblackblack and alter the other 'dark' references, they approach luxury, sexuality, sportswear, military, historical/literal themes, you name it, their work still keeps reaffirming their identity so strongly and their aesthetic is still recognizable.” [MulletProof]

“Definitely the best collection from Paris. There's a quiet glamourous and dreamy, surreal feel throughout; from the Magritte-esque presentation to the very Parisian design of each garment. It's all so charming and seductive with each single piece of garment adding strength to the entire collection. Truly refreshing.” [Phuel]

“I love the crispness of this collection, the sleek sexy vibe of the suits and strong collars, made even sexier by all of the long flowing fabric. Styled to perfection, as always. They always hit on the perfect mix of masculine and feminine to me. Divine.” [HeatherAnne]

 

Haider Ackermann

“Unmistakably and delightfully Haider, I was pleased to see him pare back his palette this season. The simplicity of all white for instance works well for silhouettes that are relatively complex. And which works of course for summer… The introduction of pajama inferences fits so well into Haider's robic oeuvre that one might almost think he invented the trend.” [Tentacl Ventricl]

“I admire when someone can make very cool, modern clothing that is at the same time breathtakingly beautiful. There is nothing to be disliked here; everything looks so luxe, so incredibly well tailored. Haider Ackermann really is one of the most awesome designers of our time and has been very reliable recently, too.” [RedandNavy]

“So utterly romantic and cool. I'd kill for one of those suits, so chic. Love, love, love.” [HeatherAnne]

Read our review and see images of the Haider Ackermann collection. 

 

Comme des Garcons 

“The idea of piles of clothes is very intriguing here – clothes piled on top of or against the body. Is she commenting on consumerism, or just deconstructing, or perhaps both? The hats were tough to discern, but some look like they could be purse-hats? Very cool how the models seem to morph at the end, like their arms are on the front of their bodies. Transformational clothes that I'd love to hear the back-story on.” [Not Plain Jane]

“This is just gorgeous. And not just in the usual quirky, funny, interesting kind of way – it is seriously beautiful from start to finish, I love almost everything here. Great collection.” [Psylocke]

“The clothes seem to me to be exploding, like they are erupting from a fabric generator or volcano. It looks chaotic, but also beautiful. I found the hats funny and interesting in their own right, and they worked with the looks, but were not essential to them. Wonderful and imaginative, nobody does it like Rei Kawakubo.” [tangerine]

Read our review and see images of the Comme Des Garcons collection.

 

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2013 Misses - Kenzo, Isabel Marant, Louis Vuitton
The Misses: Kenzo, Isabel Marant, Louis Vuitton

THE MISSES:

Kenzo

“There's not a print I like here, and I find the safari looks bordering on 'sloppy' not even slouchy. Too bad, but this is a straight up miss.” [Not Plain Jane]

“Feels a bit… common.” [Mutterlein]

“Ugh the patterns were hideous!” [ParisFashionMuse]

“This is such a big fail.” [jemina]

Read our review and see images of the Kenzo collection.

 

Isabel Marant

“This is horrible, mainstream and absolutely high street already. A really bad collection.” [Lena]

“The first dozen or so looks were just complete garbage. It got better towards the end but this isn't the Isabel Marant I fell in love with. Not a good season for her.” [lelaid]

“These clothes are ugly, full stop. Isabel Marant used to make great wearable and laid-back clothing, in my opinion. I don't know what's happened. She seems to follow the trends rather than set them nowadays.” [LolaSvelt]

Read our review and see images of the Isabel Marant collection.

 

Louis Vuitton

“That was some presentation. The way the girls walked together down the escalator was amazing, and the hair and makeup was gorgeous. Clothes, well that's another story. The checkered looks were awful, and they just weren't that great. Don't get me wrong, I'm a diehard fan of the 1960s but this just isn't exciting and while I liked the sequin looks, that was about it. Too similar to his NYC show which I thought was just awful.” [IsabelMarantBoy]

“Checkerboard clothes are never, ever, a good idea. I find the whole collection too abstract.” [lemeray]

“Someone should just change the title of the thread to ‘Marc Jacobs S/S 2013: A Continuation.’ I can't believe he gets away with using the same prints and silhouettes he used in his own show. I'm not remotely excited about this.” [beedonaldson]

“Tragic.” [Lena]

Read our review and see images of the Louis Vuitton collection.

 

Images: IMAXtree

 

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