Text by Jenny Soderman and Photos by Soren Jespen of www.copenhagenstreetstyle.dk.
The front rows at Hay House in Höjbrohus were filled with international representatives from WGSN, Style.com, the occasional celebrity and of course the grand dames of the Danish Fashion Institute.
New York-based Camilla Stärk was one of the highlights of the Copenhagen Fashion Week and she really kicked off day two, right after the eighties-inspired brand Vadum.
The American style icon and fashion editor Diana Vreeland, known for her immaculate elegance, was the inspiration and focal point for Stärks Spring/Summer line.
The diverse collection combined masculine military blazers with a Roland Mouret-inspired lace-dress.
Thin knit drawstring-blouses and dresses opened the show. Stärk gave the classic paperbag-waist a fresh twist and added nautically inspired gold buttons and thin belts that shifted the focus from the top half of the body.
Demure little silk dresses were combined with boxy, cropped shoulder-padded jackets.
Stärk’s classic black and grey was accompanied by an array of dusty pastel-shades, such as a beautiful luxurious lavender, but she surprisingly added a coral and vivid yellow color that gave the whole collection a twist that was fresher and younger than usual.
The designer’s signature body-hugging leather was also featured in the collection in a flattering pencil-skirt. A tailored jacket-shaped grey playsuit was one of the highlights.
In the afternoon it was Baum und Pferdgarten’s turn to show their worth at “The Dawning Of A New Era” show at City Hall.
The collection was more of a return towards their initial design philosophy with bold, quirky and playful, almost ironic, prints and cuts.
Designers Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave managed to create a very fresh and innovative universe with reinterpreted signature pieces and an eclectic, almost insane mix of colors and prints.
A gleaming lacquer jacket with huge mink trims caught everyone’s attention and the whole collection had folkloristic references.
The show and the collection were inspired by global urban women who are open towards new cultures and could best be described as neo-hippie, with wide pants teamed with a flowery frilly shirts and a knitted vest.
The show opened with a range of white outfits with balloon-shaped sleeves and tassled skirts with an Arabic feel accentuated by the suggestive middle-eastern music. Soft and floaty silhouettes emphasized the whimsical feel of the fabrics. The color-palette was significantly nuanced and ranged from muted greys, browns and blues with splashes of neon-pink, vivid red, coral and light green.
Prints were a vital part of the collection, along with graphics and florals. In the Baum-universe mixing different flower-prints with the signature circus-inspired striped jacket is definitely a yes. Of course, the idiosyncratic owl returned, this time on prints.
Vogelias Voyage, Bibi Ghost’s second collection was inspired by the story of the designer’s grandmother Vogelia, a lonesome aging upper class woman. The cuts were clean and dark colors added to the gloomy and almost mysterious feeling of the whole collection.
Since their economic crisis, Munthe plus Simonsen have taken a new simpler direction and that shone through in parts of the collection, a welcome relief after years of boho embellishments and frilly trims.
The collection could best be described as understated starlet-glam with delicate details such as modest crochet and quilted details.
DAY Birger et Mikkelsen celebrated their ten years in the business with an impressive but rainy show at the plaza Kongens Nytorv in the evening. The collection featured narrow suits, chinos and shorts for the men, and draped silk dresses and a pleated gown for the girls. As always, the DAY-collection entailed modern classics but moved away from their staple of ethnic-items and turned a little edgier with some leather pants and skirts. The creations were largely dominated by the classic tuxedo and featured a lot of bow ties and white details on black clothes.