Text by Jenny Soderman and Photos by Soren Jespen of www.copenhagenstreetstyle.dk.
The Fashion Collective Berlin started day three of Copenhagen Fashion Week and showcased four of the most promising designers from Berlin under the common brand FCB. This was the first major show in Denmark for the casual and modern yet refined brands Antiann and Et Reality Studio, the romantic Majaco and the edgy La La Berlin.
The most innovative show of the week was the one of Designskolen Kolding (The Design School in Kolding) that showcased a lot of dramatic and theatrical pieces but individual garments could possibly have commercial success.
The creativity of the students was overwhelming, with enormous and abstract avant-garde neck-pieces and a wide black dress and short-sleeved white coat both with oversized pleats.
One designer used chintz to create sharp lines and another created feminine and organic shapes to the menswear with an intricately knitted, almost entangled sweater that looked like it was a magnified fishnet.
Some of the coolest creations were a line of knit dresses had been cut into thin strips and evoked curtain.
To add to the torn appearance, the designer had accessorized the models with cute scissor-necklaces.
Brand new multi-disciplinary initiative Moonspoon Salon debuted directly after in the The Royal Theatre and the show as well as the clothes suggested a way-out circus-show.
The collection consisted of bold prints, a gigantic and highly unflattering puffa-jacket, an oversized clown-suit with a huge bow-tie.
The clothes are best looked upon as art since they’re too bold for most people.
The next designer on the crammed agenda was Ivan Grundahl, a brand that always appeals to the older upper-class women from the Coast north of Copenhagen. The line was as usual built around deconstructured cuts and the color-spectrum was in black, greys, beiges and whites with a safari sensibility to it.
Grundahl has a great passion for layering, assymetrical lines and generous cuts and in the new collection he made use of belts, zippers and accessories such as white military boots . The designer expectedly added excitement with leather in the form of gloves, long coats and maxi-skirts. Cardigans with buttons front and back, full skirted prom-dresses with bubble hems, belted biker-jackets and a classy chiffon gown were some of the pieces that could be worn regardless of age.
Bitte Kai Rand is the most established Danish brand and the design is all about redefining the concept of gender.
The Spring/Summer collection saw a move towards lighter fabrics, narrower silhouettes, more colors and an unpredicted interjection of flowery prints.
Bitte Kai Rand again did what the brand is best at: mixing casual with stylish.
The collection revolved around the juxtaposition between female and male, creating an almost androgynous spirit.
The designers ever so popular baggy pants, oversized shirts, pencil skirts with huge pockets and blazers with clasp-fastenings were the centre-pieces.
For Spring/Summer 2009, Bitte Kai Rand explored the world of prints and combined materials such as velvet, silk, lace, cotton and leather yet managed to make it look coherent.
In the neglected Edison Theatre Won Hundred repeated their success from last year and showed minimalistic silhouettes with an aesthetic revolving around classic menswear and formal wear.
Running behind the catwalk was a short film and still photos in an almost desperate David Lynch-tradition, and the clothes oozed of a new Scandinavian and minimalistic gothic feel.
The photos and the collection was all about subtle details like lace, drawstrings, zippers, zippers and oh did we forget….more zippers.
The shirts had tiny pointy collars and the dresses as well as the shirts had asymmetric hemlines and were longer in the back. The accessories proved to be quite disappointment though with discrete fanny-packs worn as shoulder bags and oversize back-packs.
Some of the stand-out pieces were a klein-blue short-suit and a print that made the fabric look creped.
Day three of CFW ended with urban street-wear brand Wood Wood. If the brand took a small step toward a more grungy look for the Autumn/Winter collection they certainly made a huge move toward the maritime and polished, almost preppy appearance for Summer/Spring.
This time the show was held in an edgy but very crammed backyard in the city-part Nørrebro and the catwalk consisted of cargo-pallets forming a podium and a stair.
Of course Wood Wood remained true to their urban street soul with checkered casual shirts, cargo-fabrics and oversize items.
But for the next season they introduced tailored denim and flower prints on dresses, obviously inspired by the Chloe Sevigny pieces at Opening Ceremony.
Even lace found its way into the collection and Wood Wood as many others are playing with the correspondence between male and female and added tiny heart-prints on a traditionally masculine shirt.
Stripes in red, white and different shades of blue were combined with linen pants and fine structured knits.