Enough designers have now sent asymmetric garments down the runway – I'm talking half a skirt – that I'm becoming concerned about this trend. Y-3 was, as usual, high concept and I can't say I completely understood it.
To back up a bit, the unisex show was fitting as the womenswear took heavy inspiration from the boys. Usually, with menswear inspiration comes very structured tailoring, but for the most part that was not the case with these voluminous, slouchy silhouettes. That is not to say tailoring was not exact or shapes were sloppy, it was clearly very intentional and artfully rendered.
An activewear influence showed itself in two ways: either it was done in skate-influenced shapes or sporty fabrics in unexpected shapes. One almost Victorian jacket seemed to be crafted in a parachute material, while there was an abundance of billowing trousers in staid tweeds. There were few looks that didn't include some sort of outerwear, from knits to see-through plastic ponchos. Layers were often deliberate but nonsensical. This was also one of the only runways where you see sporty sneakers, let alone paired with leggings for a very "headed to the gym" look. Utilitarian, military, urban … all these terms apply, but it was difficult to pinpoint one as an overall theme.