Things were a lot less colorful, but no less visually stimulating, on the Erdem Fall 2013 runway. Gone were the artistic florals of seasons past. Instead, Erdem Moralioglu used texture and digital prints to create layers of interest in all-black ensembles. It's rare that such a departure from a fashion house's trademark look is so successful.
There was no applique or detail left unused by Erdem on these intricate dresses, though it's interesting to note there was little to no fur, really setting this collection apart from the Fall 2013 pack. But sequins of all sizes from petite to paillet, ostrich feathers, metallic thread, embroidery and applique (this is how some of the house's signature florals snuck in), mohair, PVC, lace and ubiquitous sheer panels were all fair game and fairly lovely.
Ladylike shapes and fabrics and tweedy black below-the-knee fitted dresses kept the all-black palette from looking too goth, even when exposed zips and sheer panels outlined nearly every piece. One dress featured shades of pink and black paillets creating a digital-looking floral with the illusion of sections created by splicing in different layers of sheer black fabric. This was a high-shine collection. There was also a run of dresses in more of the brand's typical pattern with neon yellow-green, purple and lavender flowers, these too tempered by that black overlay. Skirts were below the knee and often featured a petal-shaped kick-pleat in the front.
Despite retro silhouettes there was something very modern, and very wearable, about this innovative collection. It's definitely one people should be talking about.