There is comfort in familiarity, and when Ennio Capasa opens (and closes) his Costume National Fall 2013 runway show with a tuxedo, that feels familiar. But is a Paris Fashion Week catwalk the place for comfort? It would have been better to see something a bit more exciting. With inspirations like a trip to the dangerous region of the Golden Triangle between Burma and China and the sex, drugs and rock 'n' roll poster girl of the 60s and 70s, one would have expect a frisson of energy to run through the collection but instead it was rather flat.
Those who find Costume National to fill a certain need in their wardrobe will certainly be pleased. As always, the very masculine is somehow rendered feminine under his hand with the gentle flow of fabric and subtle attention to detail that girlies up even the most boyish elements. There is definite beauty, a necessary niche and superb craftsmanship in the way he tailors to a woman's body. Skirts over pants continued to be a trend, and other similar subversive elements ran through the separates that broke up the collection of suiting.
There were lots of looks for the woman who likes high fashion in the boardroom, but what of the punk rock undercurrent Capasa is known for? Does the Costume National woman never leave the office? Make no mistake these clothes are beautifully made. But a bit plain, and a bit one-note.