Runway News

LONDON: JOHN ROCHA

As a well known and highly respected designer, much was anticipated of Rocha’s newest collection. Due to the economic crisis, long-established designers such as John Rocha are expected to be the backbone of the week.

The British Fashion Council tent was full to the brim, as the audience – from press to buyers – eagerly awaited Rocha’s contribution.

“The Autumn/Winter collection explores a certain spirit of sobriety and apparent austerity offset with a sense of utter happiness and a handsome recklessness”

Throughout the collection, we see John’s work evolve, from structure, texture and a black and nude colour palette.

New, innovative sculptural shapes were showcased on the catwalk, tapping in to the suggestion of apparent austerity. The models were cocooned in shifts and pantaloons or, in contrast, attired in tailored coats and jackets. To emphasize the puritan elements in the collection, panniered dresses and skirts, ranging in colour, were paraded down the catwalk.

Adding a dash of colour to the otherwise previously monotone looks, intense geranium red and luminous gold were used to add to delight to the dresses. Anchored in black, both matte and metallic, shades of nude, nougat and vanilla are used, as well as the aforementioned geranium red, new gold and nickel.

Rocha’s use of fabric is extremely varied throughout the collection, but it all came together and made the collection cohesive and relevant. Clean-faced wools, highly textured and speckled tweeds were featured alongside sleek pony skin and downy mohair and shearling. Hand loomed knitwear was carefully crafted in cashmere Argyle lace knits and delicately felted lambs wool.

And in typical John Rocha fashion, embellishment was definitely on the menu. Rocha, known for his hand-crafting, beading and appliqué to garments, densely decorated the brocades, and used sheer silk georgette and organza to add an undeniable feminity.

The wild patchworks of menswear create a beautiful contrast. Dressed smartly, in structured jackets and fur coats. John Rocha’s dapper menswear looks competed with womanswear in a battle of contoured silhouettes and innovative design with emphasized shoulders, varied waist lines and mixture of fabrics. John Rocha certainly showcased a new look, and lifted the dark economic clouds off our heads with a quirky colour palette and strong design.

Images courtesy of the Fashion Spot forums.