MILAN: EMILIO PUCCI F/W 09

It would be impossible to count all of the Emilio Pucci imitators these days – from the aisles of department stores to the street corners of New York City – Pucci-esque prints seem to be everywhere.  

These last few years, however, the intricacy separating Pucci’s prints from its imitators has been dwindling and now, with the departure of Matthew Williamson, Peter Dundas has been charged with elevating the brand once again – either by improving their new prints (or at least successfully reintroducing ones from the Pucci archives), or delivering a collection of covetable looks that go beyond exclusively color-splashed prints.  

Dundas opted to expand beyond prints and he did so with much success. The designer’s background, working at the likes of Roberto Cavalli and Emanuel Ungaro, was evident in many of the fur lined jackets, zipper-accented jeans, suede boots, reveling gowns, and ultra-short minis – though at times the ultra-form fitting looks bared an uncanny resembles to a number of recent Balmain pieces.  

That said, while Dundas was clearly inspired by Pucci’s signature aesthetic, it was subtle. The designer did a wonderful job at flipping the Pucci aesthetic and making it modem, fresh and wholly his own. Even a purple, white, and turquoise zigzag dress which could have easily looked dated, looked young, hip, and just screaming to be worn by a leggy nightclub reveler.  

However, Pucci devotees looking for prints may well be disappointed, making me wonder if Dundas may be better off designing his own namesake collection.  Based on what he has shown with his first stab at Emilio Pucci, he’s certainly got the chops.   

Images courtesy of the Fashion Spot forums.

Trending


X