Cibeles, Madrid’s fashion week, is celebrating its 50th edition. The shows will take place September 18th – 22nd, showcasing the best of Spanish fashion.
However, the festivities started earlier this month in New York. Following in the steps of fashion’s enfant terrible Gareth Pugh, or the grand fashion label Yves Saint Laurent, a group of Spanish creators put their heads together for a one-off video presentation.
The project, 4 EYES, combined a preview of four different Spring/Summer 2010 collections into one installation. Ana Locking, Juanjo Oliva, Carmen March, Duyos and the amazing work of production company CANADA.
Held at New York’s Public Library, the Celeste Bartos forum featured a giant screen in front of which stood several mannequins showcasing a small sample of each collection.
Ana Locking’s Antidote collection experimented with color and textures, natural and synthetic. Antidotes, medicines… Some are taken to fight the pain, others offer an ephemeral sensation of pleasure and well-being. In this case, the relief was in the fine duchess satins that still allowed the body to move. Ephemerality and temporality played an important role in the accessories, where a selection of jewelry pieces made of natural beeswax fought the established idea that a jewel is always long lasting.
The highlights of the collection were a couple of silk organza and latex ensembles – pleated, ruffled, draped close to the body, with oversized zippers exposed on the back. Transparency, femininity, and a touch of toughness equaled perfection.
Juanjo Oliva did intensive research on ‘the dress’. He was inspired by late 50’s couture. There were hints of Dior and Balenciaga via cinched waists and full skirts that ended, in most cases abruptly, high above the knee. The result was an entirely new proposition spiced up by an exotic choice of fabric.
He chose African prints and patterns, made in an ancient technique that only allows for small productions, in a beautiful melange of forest green, purples, yellow, and blue. These were as geometric as he is in his soul, and as young and fun as we expected him to be.
Carmen March describes the silhouette of her new collection as "deceivingly simple and effortless, yet flawlessly constructed." It is true that of all four designers, she was the one who chose to go for the most subdued ensembles. The palette was Mediterranean blue, sand, and alabaster, with only a slight touch of color in a bright, ruffled peach dress. There was an element of nostalgia, and endless summer. There was a perfect white dress, cut just above the knee, and the perfect spring suit – décalé, light, and structured.
If Juanjo Oliva traveled to Africa for the prints, Duyos chose Polynesian exotism as his source of inspiration. He combined matte florals with mustard suede and natural raffia in some looks, and added silk and sequins to others. He concentrated the volume below the waist, and only added a strong shoulder in a couple of jackets. There was a beautiful printed summer coat which was full in volume, with extremely fitted shoulders that were detached from the rest of the body via loose French sleeves. This was a clean silhouette, only embellished by soft pink flowers embroidered on the profile.
This sort of presentation offers a whole new experience. You can see the clothes, feel the fabrics, see the delicate stitching, and talk to the designers while being spared the chaos of the atelier. You can also see the models on the video wearing the clothes as you would on a catwalk, but the film format offers the creative freedom of unexplored territory.
Times are changing, and different contexts demand the effort of looking into different ways of presenting creative outputs. While we don’t encourage the idea
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