Runway News

Backstage Diaries: Milan Men’s Fashion Week with Wilhelmina’s Damien Neva

NEW YORK, June 28 — My final 24 hours in Milan were a blur of caffè doppio after caffè doppio and dodgy Internet connections, the best and worst sides of Italy. My Tuesday morning began at Dsquared2 way out on via Valtellina, 25 where I met Alex Ferrario. Dean and Dan Caten went with a deserted island theme replete with a waterfall, tropical flora and a wreck of an airplane fuselage with a skeletal crew. Alex and the other boys in the casting were duly bronzed to give off that unmistakably Dsquared2 glow that's more beefcake pinup than aviation accident survivor.

Image: Damien Neva for Wilhelmina Models

Image: Damien Neva for Wilhelmina Models

Following Dsquared2, I hitched a ride with Alex Ferrario over to  Z Zegna at via Savona, 56/A. Andrew Weir cast, which saw Anders Hayward, Sung Jin Park (below), and the aforementioned Alex in the lineup. Since Paul Surridge started designing for the label, his smart collections have been a favorite of mine in the Milan calendar.

Image: Damien Neva for Wilhelmina Models

Image: Damien Neva for Wilhelmina Models

It was noticeable how Stefano Pilati’s arrival at Zegna has shifted gravity within the house. Over the previous two seasons it was Z Zegna that presented larger shows, whereas the Ermenegildo Zegna collections were staged in the intimate, luxe show space at Zegna headquarters on via Savona. It will be intriguing to see how these fraternal collections relate to one another in the coming seasons.


On Wednesday morning I downed quattro caffè doppio (that is eight shots of espresso, in case you were wondering) and filed my three remaining video dispatches from the gate at Malpensa. Fourteen videos83 Instagrams, and countless tweets, made for a not awful season. Until next January in Milan, then it is arrivederci!


Z Zegna:

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